Gardens in the shade
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All gardens have shaded areas and sometimes these can be difficult to deal with. But don’t let that deter you; shade in the garden is an opportunity to grow the many superb plants, including exquisite woodland perennials, that prefer shade.
Few suburban gardens have large areas of
woodland and other naturally shaded areas. Shade in the suburbs tends to come
from fences, wall, the odd large tree and the house itself. A garden shaded by
a fence or wall will vary between total shade and baking sun in varying degrees
depending on how the it is aligned to the sun. Shade-loving plants, such as
fuchsias, rhododendrons, Pieris,
Japanese anemones and woodland irises can be grown if the garden receives
morning sun and afternoon shade. If the situation is the reverse, it is best to
choose plants that prefer more sun, such as peonies, dahlias and deciduous
azaleas.
The time of year also plays a part. As the sun becomes higher in summer so the plants become more exposed to it. If there is no direct overhead shading the conditions will be very hot by mid summer. Plants that can tolerate a wide range of sun exposure include evergreen azaleas, camellias, summer dormant primroses, and most spring bulbs. Keeping the soil mulched and humus-enriched will help shade- and moisture-loving plants endure periods of sun exposure.
Most houses are situated so that they
receive maximum sunlight. This usually results in a narrow strip of heavily
shaded ground along the southern side of the house. This area usually sees little
rain because it is protected by the house on one side and the fence on the
other, and to compound the problem this is usually where the sewer runs, so
deep-rooted plants are out. This strip can be very difficult to plant
successfully as there is little you can do that will greatly improve the
conditions. Often the best choice is stick with genuine shade-lovers, such as
ferns, Aucuba japonica and Fatsia japonica. Fuchsias might produce
the odd bloom, but few plants will flower in continuous deep shade. Coarse bark
mulches can be used to cover the ground.
Foliage-only gardens can be used in any shaded area and ferns can be used to great effect in areas that are so shaded that little else will grow. They are very attractive and graceful plants that may be grown on their own or mixed with bold broad-leaved plants or flowering shrubs and perennials if the light levels allow. Ferns are, of course, the ideal choice for shade and many adapt well to cultivation. Try Asplenium, Blechnum and Polystichum to start with, and the tree ferns and the king fern (Marattia salicina) where space allows.
Ferns prefer soil that has a high humus content, so work in plenty of leaf mould and compost. They need ample moisture and humidity but generally require good drainage. They will thrive with occasional liquid feeding and an irrigation system that delivers a fine mist.
Gardeners with large numbers of trees often find difficulty getting much to grow under them, but with a little work a woodland can easily become the finest part of the garden.
The shade cast by evergreen trees is
generally quite dense and a heavy foliage canopy can also prevent light rain
from reaching the ground. Careful thinning will let in more light and moisture
without reducing the protection that the canopy affords.
Evergreen trees often have leathery
leaves that may take years to rot down, while conifer needles will form a thick mulch that can prevent moisture from penetrating.
The soil under evergreen trees, particularly conifers, tend
to be come dry and acid. Once again, extra humus is the answer. Scrape away any
fallen foliage and put it in the compost heap to speed its decomposition.
Lightly dig over the ground and work in well-rotted compost as you go.
Deciduous trees are usually easier to
work with, especially if they are well established and high-branched. In most
cases enough light penetrates to ensure that the plants don’t become drawn,
winter rains can reach the ground and the deciduous foliage decomposes quickly
to form a thick, black leaf mould. Such areas are tailor-made for a woodland
garden and any gardener with plenty of room and established deciduous trees
should be very grateful indeed.
Your planting choice is largely governed
by the degree of light. Rhododendrons, camellias and other large shrubs
generally need reasonably bright conditions. They grow best around the outer
edges of the woodland or under a very light canopy. Fuchsias will cope with
deeper shade while the ferns and foliage shrubs already mentioned will tolerate
quite dark conditions.
Woodland bulbs will seldom do well in the permanent shade of evergreens. They need the spring sun and are most at home under deciduous trees that do not leaf up too early. The gradual increase in shade as the leaves creates perfect conditions for woodland bulbs like bluebells, snowdrops wood anemones and grape hyacinths.
Perennials too vary in their shade tolerance. Primroses Dicentra, Thalictrum and irises need bright shade, hellebores Aquilegia and hostas prefer slightly less light. Relatively few desirable perennials will grow well in deep shade. Pachysandra terminalis and Lamium cultivars do an effective job of carpeting the darker areas although ferns may really be a more attractive alternative.
Woodland gardens tend to be spring gardens and they can become somewhat colourless after mid December. Make sure you have a good range of foliage types to ensure continued interest. Hostas now come in huge range of leaf forms and bold foliaged perennials like Filipendula, Acanthus and Bergenia will provide variety. Tuberous begonias and shade-loving annuals, such as impatiens and mimulus, can be used to extend the flowering season.
You may find nutrient-hungry tree roots that are very close to the surface, in which case you can either plant around the root, possibly exposing a few large ones for effect, or you can increase the soil depth over the shallowest roots. Woodland plants appreciate regular feed just like any other plants. Slow release fertiliser pellets combined with regular mulching will produce very good results.
Large shading trees can pump huge amounts of moisture out of the ground and occasional irrigating is bound to be required. Woodland glades benefit most from soak hoses, drip lines, and fine misting sprinklers, which raise the humidity as well as keeping the soil moist. Mulches will help to conserve moisture and keep the weeds under control.
Shade can be a curse or a godsend and which it is often depends on how you use it. Once you become familiar with shade-loving plants, especially some of the beautiful perennials, you may well find yourself deliberately creating shade where once you scorned it.
Copyright Geoff Bryant
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