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Shrubs

 

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What is a shrub? The usual definition is that a shrub is any plant that develops permanent woody stems but which does not develop the main trunk (or trunks) that is the key feature of trees. This definition encompasses an enormous range of plants, all shapes and sizes, all colours and patterns, from all parts of the world.

While annuals and perennials provide large drifts of vivid colour and varying foliage, and trees may be more physically imposing, shrubs and climbers provide the permanent year-round framework for a garden. From spring to autumn annual and perennials can match anything that shrubs can offer, but come winter most are either dead or fully dormant. Trees can provide a canopy of foliage that no shrub can match and their flowers or foliage may be just as attractive, but in many situations their sheer size limits their potential. Shrubs, especially evergreens, do not suffer from such limitations. Their small size allows them to be used in places where trees simply would not fit, yet unlike annuals and perennials, they provide a continuous foliage display or, at the very least, a permanent branch structure.

There is such a vast range of attractive and useful garden shrubs that the effects that can be created are virtually limitless. If your climate allows there are many incredibly flamboyant tropical shrubs. At the other extreme you may wish to replicate an alpine scene. Shrubs can provide a wealth of flowers or maintain interest with foliage alone. How you use them is entirely over to you, but there are many things you should consider before making your choice of plants, and once you have made your choice you need to know how to get the best out of them.

Planning and plant selection

A well-chosen selection of shrubs combines all the features that are looked for in a good garden: interesting and attractive foliage, beautiful and unusual flowers, year round interest and ease of maintenance. But it doesn’t happen automatically, be careful when choosing shrubs because the vast range that is available not only provides choice, it also leads to complications that can trip up the unwary or the uninformed.

Ultimately the things that will most influence your choice of plants are your personal likes and dislikes, the general nature of your garden and soil and the climatic conditions. All of these things must be considered before you even begin to weigh up which of the myriad of species and cultivars best suits your needs.

Because shrubs are usually much smaller than trees, garden size is not such a critical issue, however you must always remember that shrubs are long-term plants. Unlike annuals and perennials it is not practical to plant for an immediate effect; you must consider how the plants will develop and what the garden will look like after a few years.

Most gardeners plant mixed shrubberies, often with room for annuals and perennials for seasonal colour, but you may to prefer to devote your entire garden, or parts of it, to one group of plants. If you are going to opt for a “one type” garden, the plants you choose must be capable of sustaining your interest throughout the year. Roses and rhododendrons are probably the most common choices. Roses generally do best on their own or in open beds with low-growing perennials, but rhododendrons and azaleas tend to look more at home as part of a larger woodland scene.

An alternative is to choose a theme, the Mediterranean look with lavender, oleander and silver-leafed shrubs, an alpine shrubbery, a dry-country garden with predominantly South African and Australian plants or a New Zealand garden with an emphasis on foliage textures.

Whatever you choose, take the time to plan the layout of your shrubs so that they blend well with the other elements of your garden and try to get it right first time. Granted, many shrubs will tolerate transplanting, but this should always be looked on as a last resort. Transplanting is always a shock and even the most obliging shrub will eventually suffer if moved with any regularity. Remember, it is not a matter of making a permanent commitment to a particular garden plan, there’s always room to chop and change, rather you are simply trying to ensure that even if the design has to be changed at least the plants had the best possible start.

Siting

Exposure

Sun, partial shade or shade, there are shrubs for all of these exposures and many will tolerate a wide range of conditions. There are no hard and fast rules here, but generally plants that prefer shade, such as rhododendrons and fuchsias, will tolerate sunnier positions provided they are moist. However, plants that prefer full sun exposures, such as most of the Australian natives, tend to suffer and become leggy if they are too shaded. If in doubt, it is generally better to err on the bright side when deciding on a site.

Soil conditions

All plants have a preferred range of soil conditions outside which they will not grow well. Some prefer dry stony soils, but most do better in moist, well-drained soil with plenty of additional compost or leaf mould to provide the all important humus.

Most of the structural problems with soil can be corrected with time but the underlying pH (whether the soil is acid, alkaline or neutral) is usually very difficult to alter. Most shrubs prefer a neutral to slightly acid soil and you should avoid adding too much lime (which increases alkalinity) unless your soil is very acid. Neutral to moderately alkaline soils will benefit from mild acid fertilisers, but highly alkaline soil is often difficult to neutralise. Lime is very soluble and tends to eventually defeat most attempts at neutralisation.

If you live in an area with limey soil, especially if it is due to the presence of limestone, you will have to put up with a restricted choice of shrubs. There are ways to work around this, such as using raised beds of specially built up soil and by avoiding planting acid soil plants in the lower parts of the garden where lime is likely to accumulate. However, it is usually better to accept your lot and stick to those plants that cope best. Don’t be afraid be experiment, many plants will surprise you with their tolerance. Refer to the chapter on compost and plant nutrition for a detailed explanation of pH.

Climate

Shrubs vary enormously in their degree of hardiness, some will survive -40°C while others are totally intolerant of frost. The limits imposed by your climate can’t be ignored and may well have the greatest influence in your choice of plants. Frost is probably the biggest killer, but don’t underestimate the effects of wind, drought, and coastal salt spray.

In the long run it is better to try and accommodate the climate than to constantly have to battle against it. However, gardeners are always willing to tempt fate by growing plants that are on the extremes of climatic tolerance and it is amazing what can be grown in the most unlikely places when shelter is provided. Covers made of light wooden stakes covered with hessian or frost cloth will provide some frost protection as will siting your more tender plants against north walls and under overhanging eaves. Windbreak fences and hedges will protect against the worst excesses of the wind and should be considered essential in many coastal areas and eastern districts that are prone to northwest winds. Very choice tender shrubs may be grown in containers and moved under cover for the winter.

Plant selection

What you choose to plant should reflect your personal preferences rather than being unduly influenced by fashions and fads. However, even the most imaginative gardens have to obey a few rules and the following factors always have to be considered.

Plant size

Shrubs vary in size from prostrate to 4 m high, but size is not just a matter of height. Most gardeners make sure they have their taller plants positioned to allow enough light for lower growers. However, many shrubs are far wider than they are high and you must consider the eventual spread of the plant as well as its potential to overshadow smaller plants. Failing to take account of the ultimate width of shrubs is probably the most common reason for having to remodel a garden. Packing everything in tightly for an immediate effect is just creating work for yourself in a few years.

Foliage retention

Shrubs may be evergreen, deciduous or somewhere in between. Whether you choose evergreen or deciduous is largely a matter of personal preference and how it fits in with your garden. However, don’t be fooled into thinking that by choosing evergreens only you’ll escape the effects of winter. All plants, even evergreens, tend to look somewhat drab in the winter months. Rhododendrons with drooping leaves and tender plants with frost damaged foliage can be just as unsightly as a mass of dead looking sticks and may not hold half the promise of beauty come springtime.

Evergreen shrubs have the advantage year round foliage. Yet this very constancy, which is so often seen as an advantage, can become boring as they often lack the seasonal variation of the deciduous shrubs. Plants like Forsythia, Deutzia, Weigela and the deciduous azaleas may look very dead in winter, but they more than make up for it in spring and often also provide a dash of autumn foliage colour.

Foliage type

Flowers may be very pretty, but remember to consider the foliage when choosing your shrubs — that’s what you will be looking at for most of the year. Shrubs come in a huge range of foliage types and by planting a varying combination of leaf sizes, textures and colours, it is possible to create year round interest. Grouping plants with similar foliage can also be very effective. Try massing silver-leafed plants to create a hot dry look, or shrubs with large deep green leaves for a cool lush effect.

Plants evolve a particular type of foliage to accommodate their natural environment. Large leaves generally mean high moisture requirement while needle-like foliage and silver leaves usually indicate drought tolerance. Sometimes your climate will play a part in your foliage choice: coastal gardeners may find they have a predominance of shrubs with small silver or sage green leaves. This can be capitalised on by massing such plants together to highlight the colour or by planting something totally different to add a contrast.

Flowers and flowering season

The flowers of most shrub genera come in fairly narrowly defined colour range. For example, there are many species and cultivars of Viburnum but they all have white or pink flowers. Likewise, there are many daphnes, but the colour range is restricted to white, pink and mauve. Even those genera that are available in a wide range of colours may lack one or two significant shades. However, with the huge range that is available it is possible to find shrubs in just about any colour.

Flower shape is also enormously variable. There are the filamentous flowers of the bottlebrushes, the pea-like blooms of Polygala and the huge flowers of the tropical Hibiscus. Some have their blooms on weeping branches, others on strongly upright spikes. Flower colour is often the prime consideration but don’t forget that the style of bloom may be just as important.

Although spring and summer are the predominant flowering seasons, there are shrubs in flower every season of the year. Within the larger genera there is often a range of flowering seasons, so, for example, it is possible to have Buddleia in bloom for up to eight months just by planting a selection of species and cultivars. Very early or very late flowers may be subject to weather damage, but they extend the period of interest.

Fragrance

To some fragrance is all important but to others it matters little. When choosing fragrant shrubs consider where best to plant them to gain the maximum benefit. Some flowers are only scented in the evening and so are best planted near the house where they can be more readily appreciated, others are strongly scented and need to be in an open space to prevent them becoming overpowering. The flowering season is all important too: witch hazel, for example, really has a rather faint scent that would be lost in the mass of spring flowers but because it flowers in winter, without competition, it is known for its fragrance.

Lifespan

Shrubs are usually considered to be permanent plants, but they don’t last indefinitely. In fact, relatively few shrubs have a garden lifespan of more than 15 years. By that time they have died of natural causes, become so overgrown and unsightly that they’ve been removed or they have outlived their welcome in some other way.

Rhododendrons and camellias are seldom replaced until they die, but most other shrubs are removed long before the end of their natural lifespan. It may be that the gardener is acknowledging a mistake, but often it is just because the novelty of that particular plant has worn off. Don’t be concerned about admitting such things, after all it’s your garden and part of the fun lies in making changes.

Preparation and planting

If I had to point to one overriding cause of failure with shrubs, I would say that it is a lack of humus in the soil. Many otherwise caring gardeners seem to be almost totally unaware of the importance of humus, which is soil made up from decomposed organic matter. Compost, leaf mould, call it what you will, it is vital. Humus improves drainage and soil aeration while increasing the water holding capacity of the soil, it provides nutrition for worms and soil micro-organisms and feeds the plants, and it creates a loose open soil that is easily penetrated by roots. Most importantly, it is the only thing that prevents the soil turning to dust.

Take the time to work in plenty of compost before planting. By compost I don’t mean animal manures or chemical fertilisers, I mean humus, because improving the structure of the soil is more important than raising its nutrient level. You can always mulch and add fertilisers later, but miss the opportunity to add humus to the root zone before planting and it is gone forever.

That point emphasised, it is a good idea to incorporate a mild general fertiliser prior to planting. Fresh animal manures and harsh chemical fertilisers can burn tender young roots so stick to mild fertilisers such as blood and bone and make sure they are well worked into the soil. Setting young roots on a base of strong fertiliser is bound to lead to root burn, but a mild fertiliser incorporated into the soil will encourage the young roots to move out into the garden soil in search of nutrients.

Buying shrubs

Make sure any plants you purchase appear to match their label description and that they are well-shaped and healthy. Avoid any shrubs that are lopsided or have broken branches. Also avoid those that have clearly just been potted or are so obviously root bound that they may have been in their containers for years. Diseased deciduous shrubs can be hard to identify when they have no leaves but make sure the twigs and firm yet pliable, not dry and brittle with shrivelled bark. Shrubs in leaf should have healthy unmarked leaves. A little frost damage or sunburn is acceptable and may even give you a few hints about how to grow the plant, but avoid any shrubs with unidentifiable leaf spotting or extensive discolouration. Avoid any insect infested plants, although a few aphids or other minor pests should not put you off.

To be sure of the colour, flowering shrubs are best bought in flower, but this isn’t always possible. Try to at least see a good colour photograph of the flower as nursery label descriptions are not always accurate. Likewise labels tend to quote sizes that are generally on the small side, so allow for a plant that grows somewhat larger than the stated size. In fairness to nurseries, plants grow as long as they are alive and they are subjected to widely varying growing conditions so it is very difficult to give an accurate size guide.

Planting

With your ground thoroughly prepared and your shrubs in hand it’s time to plant. The oft repeated saying that it’s no good putting a five dollar plant in a one dollar hole still holds true. Newly planted shrubs need loose soil in order to make quick root growth, so make sure you dig a hole that is at least twice the size of the plant’s root ball.

Soak the shrub before you remove it from its container or the roots may adhere to the sides and suffer damage. Planter bags may be cut away or carefully eased off and most plants in hard pots come away quite easily if the pot is upended and given a firm rap on the rim. If the shrub is clearly pot bound (roots spiralling or growing out the container’s drainage holes) loosen up the root ball. Otherwise just lightly work your fingers into the root ball to allow moisture to penetrate.

Place the shrub in the hole and check the soil level. Plant with the soil at the same level it was in the container. Open-ground grown plants will usually have soil marks on the trunk that show the level at which the plant was growing in the field; plant to the same level. Gently firm the plant into position with your heel as you replace the soil; don’t ram the soil back into place or you’ll undo all the work that went into loosening it up. Some gardeners like to make a rim of soil around new plants, this acts as a reservoir to contain the water when watering and is a useful idea in dry areas.

You may like to apply a light dusting of general fertiliser to the soil after planting, but the most important thing is to water the plant if the soil is at all dry. Also, staking may be necessary with larger shrubs to prevent wind-rock.

Cultivation and aftercare

Watering

Water well during the first summer but don’t drown young plants. When watering plants that were raised in containers make sure that the root ball is actually getting wet. Sometimes when the original potting mix dries it is very hard to re-wet. You may think you are watering well when, in fact, the soil around the plant is getting wet but the all important root-ball remains dry. This is a very common reason for failure.

The only way to tell whether this has happened is to probe around the roots. Those closest to the main stem may be noticeably dry and the soil may be very dusty. However, you may have to lift the plant to check the roots. Don’t be afraid to lift such plants because by this stage there’s little additional damage that you can do and it may help solve the problem.

Feeding

Any plant will gradually deplete the soil nutrients and begin to decline unless given an occasional feeding. Feeding is most important with young, rapidly growing plants, but even very large shrubs, which are often left to look after themselves, will benefit from fertiliser.

Unless you know that a shrub has particular requirements, use a general garden fertiliser. Powdered fertilisers and animal manures are usually best applied in spring and early autumn and should be watered in well. Dilute liquid fertilisers can be used throughout the growing season. Do not continue to feed tender shrubs into autumn or they may still have an abundance of soft foliage when frosts begin.

Mulching

Mulching your shrubs in spring and autumn will maintain the soil moisture and a more even soil temperature while making weeding less of a struggle. Larger shrubs with branches at ground level can be difficult to mulch around. If possible some of the lower branches can be removed to allow access, but sometimes large shrubs reach the size where mulching may have to stop.

Suitable mulches include garden compost, leaf mould from under deciduous trees, well-rotted pine needles, bark chips, shredded bark, rotted sawdust and used potting mix. Fertiliser can be added to the mulch, thereby mulching and feeding at the same time. Mushroom compost is also a good mulch but it does tend to be very heavily limed. Allow it to weather for a few months before using and keep it away from very sensitive plants. Do not use fresh grass clippings as a mulch: they become very hot and release gases that damage plant roots. All mulches should have been composted before use because the rotting process robs the soil of nitrogen; for this reason fresh sawdust should also not be used as a mulch.

Pests and diseases

Most of the pests and diseases that affect shrubs can be traced back to poor growing conditions. Regularly fed, watered and mulched shrubs growing on humus-rich soil are remarkably pest and disease resistant. However, even the healthiest shrubs can suffer occasional problems. See the pests and diseases chapter for identification and control details.

Pruning and training

Most shrubs do not require any specialised pruning techniques, just trimming and shaping. Hardy shrubs are best cut back in late winter while they are still dormant, but tender shrubs should be left to show signs of spring growth before being pruned. If they are cut back in winter they may suffer more damage than they normally would and leaving pruning until growth starts also makes any dead branches more apparent.

When pruning endeavour to maintain a well-balanced branch structure. Remove any strong-growing water shoots and thin out crowded centre growth to allow better air circulation. Consider too, the flowering period of the shrub: spring flowering shrubs that bloom on the old wood should be left until after flowering before pruning. To do otherwise would remove all the flower buds. Plants that set their flower buds in autumn should be pruned before mid summer or the following season’s flowers may be affected.

Hedges and topiary

Many densely foliaged shrubs are suitable for use as hedges. Fashions in hedging change, cherry laurel, privet and Elaeagnus used to be the most common, but Abelia, Photinia and lavender are now more popular. What you choose to hedge with largely depends on the height of hedge you require. Lavender and box are clearly better suited to low hedges, while Photinia and Viburnum tinus are much larger plants.

Do not skimp on the plants when hedging. Tighter spacing may be more expensive to start with but you get results more quickly and it is far easier to gradually remove a few plants from a dense hedge than it is to fill in gaps — a hedge with gaps must be among the most unsightly garden objects.

Hedge trimming is a chore, but the results are worthwhile. How often you have to trim depends greatly on the type of plant involved and where it is growing. An annual trimming may be sufficient for a box hedge in Dunedin but the same plant may require three trimmings per year in Auckland.

Topiary, which is the art of trimming plants into shapes, is just hedging to a slightly more fanciful design. It requires more work and the range of suitable plants is restricted — box and yew being the best — but if you like the effect of topiary you may not object to the effort involved.

Good tools are important; while you can get by with hedging shears for trimming a small lavender hedge, a powered hedge trimmer is almost essential for larger hedges and topiary.

Transplanting

Some shrubs can be transplanted with ease while others are almost certain to die if moved. Knowing which is which is a matter of experience, but as a rule plants from dry climates tend to resent transplanting while those from moist regions can be transplanted. Relatively few shrubs from South Africa and Australia tolerate transplanting but most Japanese and eastern North American shrubs present no great difficulties. This is largely to do with their root structure: dry country plants tend to have widespreading roots and may have a tap root whereas plants that can rely on regular rainfall tend to have a more compact root system.

Preparation is the key to successful transplanting. Make sure that you have the hole dug and the soil prepared at the destination and that you have a large enough barrow or team of helpers to handle the move. Dig around the plant well away from the main stem and take as large a root ball as you can manage. The next step, lifting the plant, is fraught with difficulties. Don’t underestimate the weight of a mature shrub with its ball of roots and soil or you may have a damaged back as well as a dead shrub. Sometimes the plant can be slid onto a sack or tarpaulin and dragged to it destination or you may be able manoeuvre a wheelbarrow under the shrub, but most often it requires a team effort to hoist the plant onto a barrow or trolley.

When you have reached the destination, reverse the process to plant the shrub. Once replanted the shrub will need regular watering until it is re-established. Very leafy shrubs may be pruned back to lessen the moisture lost through transpiration, but don’t overdo it or you may reduce the plants’ ability to photosynthesise.

Propagation

Most garden shrubs are grown from softwood or semi-ripe cuttings. A few are raised from hardwood cuttings, some of the species are grown from seed and a few are budded or grafted. Semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer and early autumn are probably the best method for most home gardeners. Such cuttings, taken as the weather cools, will usually strike well without any specialised equipment. However, you may need a greenhouse to keep the young plants in over winter. If you have a more sophisticated propagation system, semi-ripe cuttings of evergreen shrubs can often be taken throughout the year. See the propagation chapter for details.

Shrub Selection

The following is a selection of the most popular garden shrubs. The large families and genera (Camellia, Erica & Calluna, Fuchsia, Rhododendron, the Proteaceae, and the conifers) are covered separately.

Abelia

Frequently used for hedging, but they are effective as specimen shrubs too. A. × grandiflora is the most widely grown, particularly the golden bronze leafed form ‘Frances Mason’, but A. floribunda and A. schumannii are also quite common. They are medium to large shrubs that grow to about 1.5 m × 1.2 m. The leaves are about 35 mm long, diamond shaped, and often develop bronze tones in autumn. The white or pink tubular flowers, which are most abundant in early autumn, are attractive, as are the pink calyces that persist after the flowers have fallen. Evergreen in mild areas, but elsewhere semi-deciduous, abelias are easily grown in most sunny positions. A. × grandiflora and A. schumannii are considerably hardier than A. floribunda, which will only tolerate about -6°C. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. A. × grandiflora will also grow from open ground hardwood cuttings taken in late autumn or winter.

Abies

This coniferous genus includes a few compact dwarf forms that are excellent rockery plants. The best of these, A. balsamea ‘Hudsonia’ and A. balsamea ‘Nana’ develop into compact 30 cm globes with very fine needle-like. deep green foliage. ‘Hudsonia’ has its needles on flattened stems, while those of ‘Nana’ are arranged radially around the stems. Neither of these hybrids appears to produce cones. Grow in a cool moist soil in sun with ample summer water and shelter from hot dry winds. Both are hardy to -25°C and may be propagated by semi-ripe summer cuttings.

Abutilon

A genus of mainly South American shrubs of the mallow family. These shrubs are very vigorous and seem to need a loose open soil that allows unimpeded root development. In soils with a shallow hard clay pan they often collapse at an early age. They have large, multi-lobed leaves and A vitifolia has a soft indumentum on the foliage and stems. The species may be propagated by seed and the hybrids by semi-ripe cuttings.

The common garden species and hybrids can be divided into three groups.

The A. darwinii (syn. A. × hybridum) hybrids have pendulous, brightly coloured, 50 mm diameter, hibiscus-like flowers throughout the warmer seasons. They grow into large shrubs up to 2 m × 2 m. Although vigorous growers, they are often short lived. They are evergreen in mild areas and semi-deciduous elsewhere. Hardy to about -5°C.

The A. megapotamicum forms and hybrids are rangy open shrubs or semi-climbers. The calyces of the red and yellow flowers often develop into bladder-like structures that almost enclose the petals, but some of the hybrids have flowers similar to the darwinii hybrids. Hardy to about -10°C.

The A. vitifolia and its hybrids eventually become very large shrubs or small trees. Their white to soft pastel pink and mauve flowers, which usually appear in spring, are more wide open than the other species. Hardy to -15°C. They are usually more difficult to propagate than the others.

Adenandra

A South African genus, of which two species, A. fragrans and A. uniflora, are commonly grown. Both are small shrubs (50 cm × 75 cm) with small, narrow, dark green leaves and a preference for warm, sunny locations. They are easily grown in any well-drained soil, but are somewhat frost tender. A. fragrans has starry bright pink flowers that are scented and it is hardy to about -3°C. A. uniflora has beautiful porcelain-like white starry flowers that give it the common name china flower. It is the easier to grow and will tolerate occasional frosts of -7°C. Both species have flowers throughout the year with the main flowering in spring and early summer. Propagate from semi-ripe cuttings.

Aloysia

Formerly known as Lippia citriodora the lemon scented verbena (A. triphylla) is a fairly hardy (-12°C) deciduous to semi-evergreen shrub that is mainly grown for the citrus scent and herbal uses of its foliage. It grows to about 2 m × 2m and is inclined to be a rangy and untidy plant but the attractions of the powerfully aromatic foliage ensure that such faults are overlooked. Lemon verbena grows best in full sun and needs a rich well-drained soil and ample summer moisture to yield the best foliage. In late summer and autumn this shrub has minute lavender flowers in loose heads. Propagate by seed or open ground hardwood cuttings over winter. Semi-ripe cuttings will strike with mist and bottom heat.

Andromeda.

Andromeda polifolia is an excellent small shrub (20 cm × 40 cm) for rockeries. It has narrow bluish green 2 cm long evergreen foliage and white to pink lily-of-the-valley-like flowers in mid spring. Andromeda prefers moist, acid soil with good drainage in partial shade. Propagate by seed, layers or small tip cuttings.

Arctostaphylos

The best known member of this very hardy North American genus is the small ground cover A. nevadensis. It grows to about 15 cm × 1.2 m and has 10 mm-long, tough, leathery. rounded deep green leaves and in spring produces clusters of small pink bell-shaped flowers. As this plant matures it develops very attractive cinnamon to reddish bark, which peels away reveals a layer bright orange red new bark beneath. Arctostaphylos prefers a moist, well-drained soil in sun or very light shade and is hardy to at least -15°C. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Asclepias

The best known species of this genus is the swan plant (A. fruticosa [physocarpa]). It is widely planted as a food plant for the larvae of the monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus) but it could never be regarded as a highly ornamental plant. A. tuberosa is, however, a far more attractive bush that is just as popular with the butterflies. Both are upright shrubs with willowy foliage and soft stems. They grow to about 1.8 m × 1 m and flower from late spring to autumn. A. fruticosa has small white flowers followed by large inflated bladder-like seed pods that give it the common name swan plant. It is evergreen but damaged by temperatures below -4°C. A. tuberosa has terminal heads of bright orange and yellow flowers and long cigar-shaped seed pods. It is very hardy but tends to behave as a deciduous perennial in cold areas. Both prefer light well-drained soil in full sun. Propagate by seed or semi-ripe cuttings.

Aucuba

The Japanese laurel (A. japonica) is one of the most common garden shrubs. This is an evergreen shrub that is notable for its large evergreen leaves and dioecious habit and many gold variegated foliage forms are grown. It is widely planted because it is able to thrive in deep shade and because its bright foliage brightens up shady corners. Female plants will bear bright red fruits from late winter but male plants are really only suitable as foliage specimens or for pollination. Many named forms are grown, of these the most common are ‘Crotonoides’ (female) and ‘Mr Goldstrike’ (male). These are both bulky shrubs that may eventually reach 2 m × 1.8 m. These forms are popular because of their variegated foliage, others, such as ‘Salicifolia’, are grown for their foliage shape rather than colour. Grow in moist, humus enriched soil in shade. While sun tolerant, aucubas are inclined to burn in hot dry positions. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. Hardy to about -15°C.

Australian fuchsia see Correa or Epacris

Australian heath see Epacris

Australian mint bush see Prostanthera

Australian rosemary see Westringia

Azalea see Rhododendron and Azalea section

 

Baeckia

Recently revised and now largely included in the genus Babingtonia, these Australian plants are not widely cultivated. The most common is B. virgata but B. crenatifolia is reasonably widely grown. Both of these common species have minute leaves (seldom more that 5 mm long) and small starry white flowers in spring, which are occasionally used for floral decoration. If left untrimmed these shrubs are inclined to become rangy but respond well to pruning. Both reach about 1.5 m × 1 m. They will tolerate temperatures of -7°C for short periods. Grow in light well-drained soil in full sun. Propagate by seed, if available, or by small semi-ripe tip cuttings.

Barberry see Berberis

 

Bauera

An Australian genus of only three species, two of which, B. sessiliflora and B. ruboides, are quite common. Known as the river rose, these shrubs are densely clothed with small leaves and can be kept trimmed if a neat bush is required. Bauera is mainly grown for its starry deep pink flowers that appear from late spring. Various colour forms, including white and many shades of pink are available. Bauera prefers a moist, humus enriched, soil in sun to light shade. Both the common species grow to 80 cm × 60 cm and are hardy to about -8°C. The species may be propagated by seed; the selected forms by small semi-ripe cuttings.

Beaufortia

B. sparsa is an autumn-flowering Australian native. It is a small bush with wiry stems that are clothed in 10 mm-long bright green leaves. It is an upright shrub that seldom exceeds 1.5 m tall × 1 m wide conditions. The bright orange bottlebrush flowers always attract attention because they appear when most other shrubs have finished blooming. Plant in moist well-drained soil in full sun. B. sparsa and the other common species, B. purpurea, are hardy to about -8°C. Propagate by seed or semi-ripe cuttings.

Beauty Bush see Kolkwitzia

 

Berberis

Some species of Berberis, particularly B. darwinii, are regarded as weeds in some areas but where their growth is restrained this and other species are useful and ornamental shrubs. The genus Berberis contains both evergreen and deciduous species and many hybrids. In the main the South American species, such as B. linearifolia and B. darwinii, are evergreen while the Asian species, such as B. thunbergii, tend to be deciduous. The foliage of the barberries is quite variable, some have tiny, toothed, leathery, deep green leaves, others have long narrow leaves. Some are grown for their clusters of small bright yellow or orange flowers, others for their foliage or fruit and still others for their near impenetrable growth, which makes them a good choice for hedging. Nearly all species have formidable thorns. Grow in cool, moist soil in sun or light shade. The various coloured foliage forms of B. thunbergii, such as ‘Little Favourite’ (purple) and ‘Rosy Glow’ (pink and purple) have their best foliage colour when grown in full sun. Most barberries grow to about 1.5 m × 1 m but some are considerably larger and several dwarf forms, such as B. thunbergii ‘Aurea’, are available. All are hardy to at least -12°C and most are considerably tougher. Propagate the species by seed or cuttings; the hybrids by semi-ripe summer cuttings.

Berzelia

This South African genus is represented in cultivation by one species, B. lanuginosa, which is a compact evergreen shrub with fine, feathery foliage and minute creamy white flowers that are carried in button-like heads. The flower stems last well when cut. In cultivation this shrub rarely exceeds 1.5 m × 1 m but it can be considerably larger in the wild. It is an undemanding plant that is easily grown in any light well-drained soil in full sun and able to withstand frosts of -4°C or more, although it prefers a mild climate. Propagate by seed or small semi-ripe cuttings.

Boronia

Justifiably one of the best known spring flowering shrubs, the very fragrant brown boronia (B. megastigma) is one of a genus of about 60 species native to Australia . In recent years many other species and hybrids have become available. The colour range now includes a number of bi-colour forms and many with vivid pink or mauve flowers. However B. megastigma, especially the form ‘Heaven Scent’ is still the most fragrant species. It will grow to about 1.2 m × 1.2 m and is hardy to around -10°C. Grow in moist well-drained soil in sun or light shade.

Other common species and hybrids include the vivid cerise flowered red boronia (B. heterophylla), which can grow as high as 1.8 m. There is a smaller form, B. elatior, which is about half the size of the red boronia. The name is apparently not correct but it still widely sold as B. elatior.

The mauve flowered B. denticulata and the pink B. fraseri, which is best known in its form ‘Southern Star’, have open starry flowers. B. pinnata and B. muelleri both have starry pink flowers and B. muelleri is also available in a white form. B. pilosa has deep pink flowers and is available in a very distinctive double form known as ‘Rose Blossom’.

Most boronias have very fine, almost needle-like foliage but B. crenulata has rounded leathery leaves and looks very like a Crowea. B. fraseri also has slightly broader leaves.

Boronias should be pruned immediately flowering, this maintains the shape of the bush and prolongs their notoriously short lives. Even so don’t count on a lifespan of more than 5–7 years. Unfortunately B. megastigma tends to be the shortest lived of all, seldom lasting beyond 4–5. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Bottlebrush see Callistemon

 

Bouvardia

This Central and South American genus contains several fragrant species, however, most are too tender for temperate climate gardens. A few species are, however, reasonably hardy, of these the one most widely grown is B. longiflora (humboldtii). This species has deep green 40 mm-long leaves and fragrant, jasmine-like, tubular white flowers. The main flowering season is summer and autumn, but in mild climates it will bloom throughout the year. The bush is inclined to be rather untidy and is often best grown in hanging baskets or as a small climber. It usually grows to about 1.2 m × 80 cm and does best in rich moist soil in sun or light shade. Shelter from cold winds and temperatures below -3°C. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Brachyglottis

The native rangiora (B. repanda) is a large evergreen shrub or small tree that grows to about 4.5 m × 3 m. The foliage is the main feature; it has broad oblong leathery leaves that are up to 30 cm long × 20 cm wide, although they are usually somewhat smaller. The undersides of the leaves are covered in a fine silvery grey indumentum. The small cream daisy-like flowers, which occur at time between late spring and early autumn, are carried in large panicles. Purple (‘Purpurea’) and white variegated (‘Variegata’) foliage forms are available. Grow in well-drained soil in sun or light shade and shelter from strong winds, which will damage the large leaves. Hardy to about -4°C. The species may be raised from seed but the cultivars are propagated by semi-ripe cuttings.

Breath of Heaven see Coleonema or Diosma

Broom see Cytisus

 

Brunfelsia

The commonly grown species, B pauciflora (calycina) and B. latifolia are beautiful soft stemmed shrubs with narrow deep green leaves and masses of widely flared light mauve to deep purple flowers. They are very attractive plants but too frost tender for all but nearly frost-free areas. In suitable gardens they may grow to 1.2 m × 1 m but they are more commonly grown in containers and kept severely trimmed. They may also be used as annuals. B. pauciflora ‘Floribunda’ is sometimes known as yesterday, today and tomorrow because of the way the flowers change from purple to lavender to pink over the three days. Grow in moist, well-drained soil in sun or light shade. Shelter from draughts and frost. Propagate by seed or semi-ripe cuttings.

Buckthorn see Rhamnus

 

Buddleia (Buddleja)

These shrubs are widely planted because they grow quickly, flower over a long season and attract butterflies and small nectar-feeding birds. They are also often used as a quick hedge or screen. Most species and hybrids are large (around 2.5 m × 2 m), rapid growing, evergreen or deciduous shrubs. The foliage is greyish to deep olive green and the minute flowers are carried in large tapering panicles. B. davidii and its cultivated forms, which have flowers in white and numerous pink, lavender and purple shades, are the most common’ but other species and hybrids, such as the rampant evergreen B. salvifolia, are regularly seen. B. fallowiana is similar to B. davidii but its foliage is covered with a heavy coating of white felt. ‘Lochinch’ is a hybrid between B. davidii and B. fallowiana. Its foliage is not quite as impressive as that of B. fallowiana but it fragrant lavender flowers make it a better all-round choice.

Buddleia globosa is an evergreen with unusual balls of light orange flowers. It blooms in late winter to late spring depending on the climate. B. alternifolia is deciduous, has an attractive weeping growth habit and flowers very heavily. B. colvilei is an evergreen with panicles large bell shaped pink to maroon flowers and new growth that is coated with a reddish brown felting. B. asiatica is a slightly tender species (-5°C) with long weeping panicles of fragrant white flowers. The flowering season varies with the species and by growing a range it is possible to have bloom from mid winter to mid summer, at least in mild winter areas.

Buddleias flower on year old wood so any pruning should be done immediately after flowering to ensure a good crop of bloom in the following season. A few species are frost tender, but most are hardy to -10°C to -15°C; B. alternifolia can withstand -20°C. They grow best in moist, humus enriched, soil in full sun or light shade and are capable of tolerating short periods of drought. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Butterfly Bush see Buddleja

 

Buxus

Box (B. sempervirens) is a small evergreen shrub that is densely covered with small, leathery oval leaves. Its dense foliage and ability to withstand regular heavy trimming has made it extremely popular for hedging and topiary. Although the genus includes over 30 species B. sempervirens and its cultivated forms predominate in garden use. Because box hedging has been in use since Roman times there has been ample opportunity to develop hybrids and cultivars. Consequently B. sempervirens is now available in many sizes from 30 cm × 30 cm to 2 m × 1 m; there is also a cream variegated form. If you are planning a box hedge make sure you choose a variety of the appropriate size. Box is usually slow growing and does best in moist well-drained soil but is drought tolerant and capable of growing in a wide range of soil types. The growth is more compact in full sun but the plants will withstand quite deep shade. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. Other species, such as the large-leafed B. balearica and the very small-leafed B. microphylla, are occasionally grown.

Caesalpinia

In mild climates the common species, C. gilliesii, is a medium sized tree, but outside the subtropics it seldom exceeds 2.5 m × 1.8 m. It is an attractive, if somewhat thorny, plant with fern-like foliage and in summer it produces heads of yellow flowers with prominent scarlet stamens. Caesalpinia grows best in light well-drained soil in full sun, but shelter from strong wind and temperatures below -4°C are essential. It may be evergreen in very mild areas but is elsewhere it is semi-deciduous or deciduous. C. pulcherrima is a similar species with orange flowers and a more distinctly deciduous habit. It will tolerate freezing back to ground level provided the spring and summer weather is warm enough to allow for rapid regrowth. C. pulcherrima can be kept trimmed if neater bush is required. Usually raised from seed (seed houses offer other species too) and can also be grown from semi-ripe summer cuttings.

Calceolaria

The shrubby Calceolaria species have flowers very like the small bedding and perennial species but are longer lived and substantially larger. The most common species is C. integrifolia, it is available with yellow or reddish bronze flowers. The pouch shaped blooms are carried throughout the year in mild areas. The narrow 75 mm-long are light yellowish green with a soft texture. C. integrifolia is an evergreen shrub but it can become untidy over winter in cold areas. It may grow to 1.5 m × 1.2 m but is usually kept trimmed. Grow in cool, moist, humus enriched soil in light shade. Hardy to about -8°C. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Calico Bush see Kalmia

Californian Lilac see Ceanothus

 

Callistemon

An Australian genus of about 20 species and many hybrids, only a few of which are commonly grown in gardens, although specialist seed suppliers stock most of the species. The most common garden form is probably C. citrinus ‘Splendens’. It is a 2.2 m × 1.8 m evergreen shrub with 75 mm-long narrow, deep green leaves and bright red filamentous bottle-brush flowers in spring and autumn. The colour range of the other species and hybrids includes white, yellow, green, orange and purple. All but a few are large shrubs that can become untidy unless pruned to shape. ‘Little John’ is a low, spreading cultivar that is more compact than most other bottlebrushes. However, it is only hardy to about -4°C. Grow in light well-drained soil in full sun. Most species are hardy to about -8°C with a few able to tolerate -12°C although they may be badly damaged. Species are easily raised from seed, while most hybrids strike freely from semi-ripe cuttings.

Calluna see Erica and Calluna section

 

Calycanthus

The Carolina allspice (C. floridus) and the closely related C. occidentalis both have strongly fragrant reddish brown flowers in early summer and large deep green rounded leaves. The general appearance is rather like a red-flowered magnolia. All parts of the plants are aromatic. C. floridus grows to about 2 m × 1.5 m while C. occidentalis may reach 4 m × 2.5 m. They prefer moist, humus enriched soil in sun to moderate shade. They are hardy to about -15°C and able to be grown in all but the coldest areas. Propagate by seed or semi-ripe summer cuttings. Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) was once included in this genus and may occasionally still be found listed as Calycanthus praecox.

Calytrix

An Australian genus of some 50 species of evergreen shrubs, of which the fringe myrtle (C. sullivanii) is the most common. It is an upright shrub that grows to about 1.5 m × 1 m. The foliage is small, almost needle-like, and may become sparse with age. The flowers, which are small, white and starry, are carried in loose heads so that a bush in full flower is attractive. This is not a spectacular shrub, but it is often used for informal hedging or other utility plantings. It should be grown in light well-drained soil in full sun and is hardy to about -10°C. Another species, the pink-flowered C. alpestris, is also quite common. Other species may occasionally be seen and many are available as seed, all are similar to the two common species. Raise from seed of semi-ripe cuttings.

Camellia see Camellia section

 

Cantua

A genus of 6 shrubs from South America, primarily Peru. They are evergreen to semi-deciduous and are mainly grown for their very attractive and conspicuous pendulous tubular flowers. The most common species is the sacred flower of the Incas (C. buxifolia). It is an open upright bush (2 m × 1.2 m) with small, rounded leaves and is a rather undistinguished shrub save for its spectacular bight pink flowers. It is the kind of plant that remains unnoticed until spring, when it blooms, then everyone wants to know what it is. Best grown in mild areas, as it will not tolerate temperatures below -3°C with any regularity. Grow in light well-drained soil in full sun or light shade. Propagate by seed or semi-ripe cuttings. Other species that may occasionally be seen include C. bicolor, which has yellow and red flowers, and the very attractive C. tomentosa, which has larger leaves and masses of pinkish-orange flowers.

Carmichaelia

This is one of the New Zealand native broom genera. As with most brooms the true leaves, which are very small and rounded, are absent for most of the year but the green branches make up for the lack of leaves. The genus includes 39 species, but is not often seen in gardens; native enthusiasts commonly grow 4 species, C. cunninghamii, C. grandiflora, C. odorata and C. williamsii. All are wiry-stemmed shrubs that grow to about 1.8 m × 1.5 m. The stems of C. williamsii are very distinctive as they are flattened. They bear small sweet pea-like flowers in dense clusters from late November or early December. C. cunninghamii has white flowers; C. grandiflora flowers tend to have more of a pink tone and are very fragrant; C. odorata retains its foliage longer than the other species and has pink and white flowers that are very scented; and C. williamsii has creamy yellow flower veined with purple over a long season. All are drought tolerant once established but they do far better in moist well-drained soil. Unlike most brooms, Carmichaelia species seem to have a preference for light shade rather than full heat of the sun. Carmichaelia is usually raised from seed, but selected forms should be grown from cuttings, which may be difficult to strike.

Cassinia

This genus of Southern Hemisphere natives includes several New Zealand representatives among its 25–30 species. They are not highly regarded as garden plants but one species, C. fulvida, is sometimes grown in gardens or amenity plantings. It is a distinctive 1.8 m × 1.5 m shrub because of its minute greenish gold foliage, which gives it the common name golden cottonwood. The tiny creamy white flowers, which most commonly appear in spring, are massed in small heads but the effect is not particularly spectacular. The main attributes of this shrub are its unusual foliage colour and the fact that it is very tough (hardy to -15°C) and able to be grown in exposed windswept positions. It tolerates most conditions, but is best in light well-drained soil in full sun. Raise from seed or semi-ripe cuttings.

Ceanothus

This large North American genus (55 species) is one of the best for providing plants that are hardy, evergreen and heavy flowering. Most Ceanothus species have bright blue flowers but there are now hybrids in white and many shades of pink and blue. The flowers are minute but massed in heads up to 50 mm in diameter. The most common species is probably C. papillosus ‘Roweanus’, a large shrub or small tree with masses of deep blue flowers heads in spring. Other species vary in size from ground covers, such as some C. gloriosus and C. griseus forms, to medium sized trees, such as C. thyrsiflorus. All will tolerate frosts and some are very hardy. Grow in light well-drained soil in full sun. Excess moisture and humidity can lead to fungal problems and rotting. Propagate by semi-ripe tip cuttings; the species may also be raised from seed.

Cedrus

The large cedars, which are described in the trees chapter have given rise to a few dwarf and ground cover forms. The best known of these is the dwarf Himalayan cedar (C. deodara ‘Nana’), which has deep green needles that are yellowish green when young. It grows very slowly to 1 m × 2.5 m. There are also two ground cover forms of the cedar of Lebanon (C. libani). Both C. libani ‘Nana’ and C. libani ‘Sargentii’ have deep green needles and spread slowly to form a 1.5 m wide carpet that mounds slightly at the centre. Cedars prefer moist well-drained soil and a position in the sun. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings in summer.

Ceratopetalum

The New South Wales or Sydney Christmas bush (C. gummiferum) is an evergreen shrub noted for the way its flower calyces intensify in colour as they mature. The starry 15 mm calyces start out cream and mature through pink to a vibrant red. They are at their most intense around the end of December hence the name Christmas bush. The true flowers are insignificant. The deep green leaves are composed of three narrow leaflets. With time this plant can develop into a small tree up to 5 m × 3 m, but it is usually trimmed to encourage new growth and more flowers. Plant in cool, moist, humus enriched soil in sun or very light shade. It is hardy to about -4°C and may be grown in southern areas if sheltered when young. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings; the species may also be raised from seed.

Ceratostigma

Chinese plumbago (C. willmottianum) is a deciduous shrub with intense deep blue phlox-like flowers in summer. It may grow to 1.2 m × 1 m but is often treated as a perennial and cut back to near ground level each year. This encourages new flowering shoots and dense foliage. The 50 mm-long leaves are deep green to bronze-green. It is able to grow in a wide range of soils and is tolerant of light shade, although it does best in sun. Hardy to -15°C, it will recover even when frosted back to ground level. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. C. griffithii  and C. plumbaginoides are similar species that are lower growing and somewhat later flowering.

Cestrum

The night scented jasmine (C. nocturnum) is the best known member of this genus. It is a soft-stemmed evergreen shrub with 100 mm-long deep green leaves and clusters of small tubular cream flowers in late spring and summer. The flowers are not very attractive, but they are very sweetly scented at night. These are occasionally followed by white berries. Unfortunately this 2.5 m × 1.8 m bush is very frost tender. Other species, such as C. aurantiaca and C. elegans have more spectacular (though unscented) flowers and fruit but are also frost tender. One hybrid, C. ‘Newellii’, is considerably hardier and will tolerate frosts of about -6°C without excessive damage. It has bright red unscented flowers and will develop into a 2 m × 1.2 m. Cestrum grows best in sunny, sheltered positions with rich, moist, well-drained soil. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings; the species may also be raised from seed.

Chaenomeles

The flowering quince (C. × superba) is a deciduous shrub that flowers in winter and early spring. It has an untidy sprawling habit and also has vicious thorns. However, its winter display is enough to ensure that it will continue to be widely grown. The modern flowering quinces, generally known as japonicas, are the result of hybridising between C. japonica, C. cathayensis and C. speciosa. The true C. japonica is a very compact bush that seldom exceeds 1 m × 1 m. C. cathayensis is the tallest of these species and is where the sometimes untidy habit of the older hybrids comes from. However, it has large flowers and very aromatic fruit.

New hybrids with more compact growth and larger, less garish, flowers have been introduced in recent years. Many of these flower later than the older forms, so by carefully selecting a range of cultivars it’s possible to have plants in flower for about eight months. Most flowering quinces can grow to 4 m × 3 m but they are usually kept trimmed to far smaller dimensions. They may be used for hedging and espaliering as well as general garden use. They are extremely hardy. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings in late summer or hardwood cuttings in winter. The fruiting quinces belong to Cydonia, a closely related but distinct genera.

Chamaecyparis

There are countless small cultivars of Chamaecyparis that are suitable as general garden shrubs or rockery specimens. Most are forms of C. lawsoniana, C. obtusa and C. pisifera and they tend to be small rounded bushes or ground covers with flattened sprays of cupressus-like foliage. Some of the best are:

C. lawsoniana ‘Elwood’s Gold’

Light yellowish gold foliage that darkens as it ages. Pyramidal growth to about 1.5 m × 45 cm.

C. lawsoniana ‘Fletcheri’

Deep bluish-green foliage. Forms a broad based pyramid 1.2 m high × 1.5 m wide. ‘Fletcher’s White’ is a form with patches of cream foliage.

C. lawsoniana ‘Green Globe’

As the name suggests, a mound of deep olive green foliage about 40 cm × 40 cm.

C. lawsoniana ‘Minima’

Develops into a 60 cm × 60 cm mound of slightly yellowish green foliage. ‘Minima Aurea’ has golden-yellow foliage and ‘Minima Glauca’ is bluish.

C. obtusa ‘Nana’

Deep bronze-green foliage. It eventually grows to about 1.5 m × 1.5 m but is very slow.

C. pisifera ‘Compacta Variegata’

This cultivar forms a 20 cm × 40 cm mat of bright green flecked with light yellow.

C. pisifera ‘Filifera Aurea’

The foliage of the cultivar is bright yellow and the individual scales are very much reduced to form thread-like stems. It eventually grows to about 2 m × 3 m.

C. pisifera ‘Snow’

A very slow growing cultivar that eventually reaches 1.8 m × 1.2 m. Bright bluish green foliage heavily flecked with cream.

There are many more cultivars with new ones constantly being developed. They are all hardy to at least -20°C and are at their best in cool, moist, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. Red spider mite can be a problem in hot dry positions; see the pests and diseases chapter for details.

Chamaelaucium

The Geraldton wax flower (C. uncinatum) is an evergreen Australian shrub that does best in mild areas without excessive humidity; it is best suited to the North Island east coast, Nelson and coastal Marlborough. The dark green foliage is needle like and inclined to be sparse but the plant is grown for the flowers not the foliage. These are small and starry and borne in sprays of 8–12 flowers. There are several forms with flowers in white and various pink and red shades; they are long lasting when cut. Large plants, which may grow to 2 m × 3 m, develop twisted and gnarled trunks that are full of character. Plant in light, very well-drained soil in full sun. Hardy to about -6°C. Propagate the selected forms by small semi-ripe cuttings.

Chilean cranberry or Chilean guava see Ugni

 

Chimonanthus

Wintersweet (C. praecox) is mainly grown for its scent. It is a deciduous shrub or small tree that grows to about 4 m × 2 m with sparse foliage and relatively insignificant flowers. However the scent and its winter flowering habit have ensured its continued popularity. The individual leaves are quite large, up to 150 mm long, and deep green but they are easily damaged and fall early so the overall foliage effect is untidy. The waxy, light-yellow-blotched-purple flowers appear from late winter and have a powerful spicy fragrance. Two forms are available: ‘Grandiflora’ has large flowers (and larger leaves), while the flowers of ‘Luteus’ are a pure bright yellow with no purple markings.

Plant in cool, moist, humus enriched soil in sun or light shade. Chimonanthus is very hardy (-25°C) and needs some winter chilling (at least a few frosts) to ripen the wood and flower properly, so it may not be suitable for mild northern areas. Usually propagated by seed, which takes several years to reach flowering age. The selected forms are grown from layers or grafted.

Chinese lantern see Abutilon

Chinese plumbago see Ceratostigma

 

Choisya

Mexican orange blossom (C. ternata) is one of the most widely planted evergreen shrubs. It can be seen in countless gardens and amenity plantings. Its chief attributes are its bright green foliage, good display of white flowers, scent, hardiness and tolerance of neglect. Its only drawbacks are its susceptibility to leaf roller caterpillars and scale insects. The glossy trifoliate leaves are an attractive mid green shade (‘Sundance’ is a golden foliaged form) and the clustered starry white flowers have a mild spicy scent. The whole bush is aromatic. Choisya may grow to about 2 m × 2 m but is usually trimmed quite heavily, and it can be used for loose informal hedges. It flowers most heavily around mid spring but carries some bloom throughout the year in most areas. Easily grown in almost any soil in sun or light shade, but benefits from regular feeding and occasional deep watering. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Chordospartium

This New Zealand broom genus contains only one species, C. stevensonii. It is native to the Kaikoura region and very rare in the wild although quite extensively cultivated. Its appearance is typical of most brooms; leafless and wiry stemmed but it has some redeeming features. The first is its graceful weeping habit (it grows to about 3.5 m × 3 m) and the second is its magnificent display of highly scented lavender to purple flowers. The flowers are small but carried in huge numbers. It blooms from early December but the season is short, four weeks at the most. As with most New Zealand brooms it prefers moist, well-drained soil and is not as drought or heat tolerant as the European brooms. Hardy to at least -10°C and easily grown in most gardens. Raise from seed, which should be soaked for several hours before sowing. Selected forms may be grown from semi-ripe cuttings, but they can be difficult to strike.

Chorizema

The flame peas are an Australian genus of about 20 species, of which the most widely grown is C. cordata. It is an open spreading shrub that grows to about 80 cm × 1.2 m with foliage that is mid to dark green and heart-shaped (as cordata implies). When grown among other shrubs it will behave as a small semi-climber. It has small bright purple and orange sweet pea-like flowers through the warmer seasons. Other species are available in different colours: C. ilicifolia has red and yellow flowers; C. varium has yellow and purple flowers with red veins. All do best in light well-drained soil in sun or light shade. Hardy to about -5°C, but best sheltered from frost. Raise from seed or semi-ripe cuttings.

Cigarette plant see Cuphea

 

Cistus

One of the classic genera for hot dry conditions; most Cistus (‘Rockrose’) species are native to the Mediterranean area and the Iberian Peninsula. They have flowers, primarily in spring and early summer, that look like single roses. The colour is usually white or pink, often with contrasting blotches. The narrow to rounded foliage is usually a light green or greyish green and sticky. The plants have an aromatic, sticky, resinous sap and can be very combustible in hot dry weather. Many species and hybrids are grown. They range in size from ground covers, such as C. salvifolius, to large (1.8 m × 1.2 m) shrubs, such as C. ladiniferus and C. laurifolius. Plant in light well-drained soil in full sun. Trim to shape after flowering. Most species are hardy to -10°C. Propagate from semi-ripe cuttings.

Clerodendrum

Most species of this African and Asian genus are too tender for temperate climate gardens but three — C. bungei, C. trichotomum var. fargesii and C. ugandense — are reasonably hardy. C. trichotomum is the hardiest and should withstand at least -15°C. All are deciduous (semi-evergreen in mild areas) shrubs that will eventually grow to at least 1.8 m × 1.2 m. (C. trichotomum may reach 3.5 m × 2.5 m.) They have large rounded leaves and unusual butterfly-wing shaped flowers with conspicuous protruding anthers. They usually bloom in spring and the flower colour varies with the species but is generally lavender pink to purplish blue. C. bungei has very fragrant rosy red flowers. The bright blue or purple berries that follow are also attractive. Grow in cool, moist, humus enriched soil in sun or light shade. Propagate by semi-ripe autumn cuttings or raise from seed. Gardeners in the far north may also be able to grow some of the subtropical species, such as the fragrant C. philippinum or the bright-red-flowered C. speciossimum.

Clethra

The lily of the valley tree (C. arborea) is the best known species of this genus, but the sweet pepper bush (C. alnifolia) is also sometimes seen. C. arborea is an evergreen large shrub or small tree. Advanced specimens may reach 6 m × 3 m but garden plants are generally around 3.5 m × 2 m. It has large, deep green, laurel-like foliage and from mid summer it bears masses of mildly fragrant white lily-of-the-valley flowers in large panicles. It is not entirely hardy but will withstand occasional frosts of -6°C. C. alnifolia is a very hardy deciduous shrub that grows to about 3 m × 1.8 m. Its foliage, which does not appear till late spring, is similar to C. arborea as are its flowers, which differ in that they are borne on upright spikes not drooping panicles. Pink forms of C. alnifolia are available but rare. Clethra does best in cool, moist, humus enriched soil in sun or light shade. Water well in summer. Raise from seed or semi-ripe cuttings.

Clianthus

The kaka beak (C. puniceus) is a New Zealand native that is now very rare in the wild, and it has been suggested that it was only through cultivation in Maori gardens that it survived to the present day. It is a very attractive evergreen shrub with mid green ferny foliage and a spreading habit; mature specimens are about 1.5 m × 2.5 m. From spring to early summer it provides a great display of its large, long-keeled, sweet pea-like flowers. The species has bright red flowers but pink and white forms are common. ‘Kaka King’ is a new heavy-flowering cultivar with good foliage. Although it is an undemanding plant, the kaka beak tends to be short lived and is prone to a couple of problems. The first is a leaf miner that often disfigures the foliage by mining around each of the leaflets. The second is a tendency to develop witches’ brooms. These growths, which are caused by the action of minute mites, can so reduce the useful foliage of a plant as to kill it. Treat C. puniceus as a temporary plant and, if you tolerate the problems rather than trying to beat them, you’ll find that it has a lot to offer. Grow in moist, well-drained soil in sun or light shade. Hardy to about -10°C. Raise from seed or propagate the selected forms from semi-ripe cuttings.

Coleonema

A South African genus often confused with, Diosma. Two species and several selected forms are grown. The less common species is C. album, which is often sold as Diosma ericoides. It grows to about 1.5 m × 1 m and has small needle-like leaves and tiny white starry flowers in spring. As with all Coleonema, the bush is spicily aromatic. C. pulchrum is more common. It is very similar to C. album but has slightly softer foliage and pink flowers. Several forms are cultivated with white or deeper pink flowers. ‘Sunset Gold’ is a very popular form with bright yellow foliage and light pink flowers in spring. It is more compact than the species and usually grows as a flat topped bush or ground cover. It may reach 70 cm × 1.5 m. All Coleonema forms withstand regular trimming to shape. Plant in light but moist well-drained soil in full sun. ‘Sunset Gold’ in particular must be grown in the sun to maintain the foliage colour. Hardy to around -8°C. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Convolvulus

Not all Convolvulus are rampant invasive weeds, two shrubby species are grown. C. cneorum is a low compact bush (60 cm × 1.2 m) with bright silvery leaves and large white flowers in late spring and summer.. It is easily grown in any light well-drained soil in full sun and makes a very effective ground cover for dry banks. C. mauritanica is more of a true ground cover. It will only reach 15 cm high but may spread to 1.2 m wide. It has lavender to purple flowers and soft green, rounded leaves. It too is an excellent ground cover for dry banks or large rockeries. Both are hardy to -8°C. C. mauritanica will often shoot from the rootstock if frosted to ground level. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Coprosma

This native genus includes a wide range of evergreen shrubs and ground covers ranging from the minute alpine species, such as C. atropurpurea, to large shrubs or small trees, such as C. robusta. A wide range of hybrids and selected forms are also grown. The flowers are generally insignificant but are often followed by attractive (and poisonous) berries. However, many of the garden forms do not set fruit. The most common garden varieties are C. kirkii and its variegated form; C. repens and its various foliage forms; and the deep bronze glossy-leafed hybrids, such as ‘Coppershine’ and ‘Chocolate Soldier’, the origin of which is uncertain.

C. kirkii, which is often crossed with C. brunnea is a wide spreading ground cover. It may grow to 40 cm × 2.5 m. It has strong wiry stems clothed with tiny deep olive-green leaves. C. repens is an upright shrub that may reach 2.5 m × 2 m. It is common in coastal areas and is grown for its large and extremely glossy rounded leaves, which give it the common name of mirror plant. There are many coloured foliage forms, such as ‘Silver Queen’, which has white edged leaves. C. repens is slightly frost tender, but it is an excellent coastal plant that is able to tolerate the harshest salt winds. Grow Coprosma in moist, well-drained soil in full sun or very light shade. The species may be raised from seed but the selected forms should be propagated by semi-ripe cuttings.

Coral tree see Erythrina

 

Corokia

This native genus comprises only three species of evergreen shrubs but there are numerous hybrids and selected forms. They are grown for their deep bronze green to purple foliage and their yellow, orange or red berries. In some seasons their scented small yellow spring flowers are attractive too. The three species are the mainland natives, C. buddleioides, C. cotoneaster, and C. macrocarpa, which come from the Chatham Islands. C. macrocarpa is the most attractive of the species; it has 75 mm-long narrow deep green leaves that are silvery on the undersides and in late winter and early autumn it carries a heavy crop of orange to red berries. There is also a very important natural hybrid, C × virgata, which is the parent of many of the garden forms. There are several bronze leafed forms, such as ‘Bronze Knight’ and ‘Bronze Lady’ and others, such as ‘Red Wonder’ and ‘Yellow Wonder’ that are grown primarily for their fruit.

They are all tough and adaptable and will become large bushes: up to 3 m × 2.5 m if left untrimmed. Corokias withstand regular trimming and may be used for hedging. They also tolerate salt spray and are very effective coastal plants. Corokias perform best in moist well-drained soil in full sun or very light shade. They are very hardy and are drought tolerant once established. The species may be raised from seed, but the selected forms should be propagated by semi-ripe cuttings.

Correa

An Australian genus of 15 species known as Australian fuchsias because of their pendulous flowers. The flowers are, however, tubular not fuchsia-like. They are evergreen shrubs with small dark green leaves that are often slightly felted on the underside. Commonly grown species include C. alba (white to pale pink flowers); C. pulchella (pink to red flowers) and C. reflexa, which has pale pink flowers. There are also several hybrids with white, creamy yellow, pink or red flower. The best known of these is C. ‘Mannii’, which has 25 mm long red flowers. Australian fuchsias are not showy, the flowers are often hidden in the foliage, but they are undemanding, make good coastal plants and have a subtle charm. Most grow to about 80 cm × 1 m. C. alba tolerates regular trimming and is occasionally used for low hedging. Grow in light well-drained soil in full sun. Hardy to about -10°C. Propagate by small semi-ripe tip cuttings; the species may also be raised from seed.

Cotinus

The smoke bush (C. coggygria) is the better known of the two deciduous species in this northern hemisphere genus. It is grown both for its massed clusters of minute greyish flowers, which appear as a smoky haze in spring, and for its foliage, particularly the intense yellow to orange-red and purple autumn colour. Several purple leaf forms, such as ‘Royal Purple’ extend the foliage appeal throughout the growing season. The other species, C. obovatus, has more intense autumn colour than C. coggygria, but is not as widely grown because it does not have the range of summer-coloured foliage forms. Both species are large deciduous shrubs or small trees that may reach 5 m × 4 m. They will withstand cutting back if necessary. Grow in moist, well-drained soil. Full sun is essential for good autumn colour. Established plants often produce suckers, which may be removed with attached roots and grown on. Otherwise propagate by layers.

Cotoneaster

This Northern Hemisphere rose family genus includes about 50 evergreen, semi-deciduous and deciduous species. All are hardy to at least -15°C and many will tolerate -25°C. They range from spreading ground covers to large shrubs and are grown for their foliage, flowers and berries. The berries (usually bright red) are the most conspicuous feature of most species but the foliage and flowers (massed small white stars in spring) should not be overlooked. The foliage ranges from the small rounded 8 mm leaves of C. congestus to the 125 mm-long willow-like foliage of C. henryanus. Some of the deciduous species, such as C. adpressus, develop good yellow and orange autumn foliage colours.

Cotoneaster includes many adaptable low, spreading species, such as C. dammeri, that may be grown as ground covers, grafted onto upright stocks as weeping standards, or espaliered. There are also bushes, such as the heavily-berried C. lacteus and C. conspicuus, and quite a few very large species, such as C. salicifolius, which can grow to 5 m × 5 m.

Considering Cotoneaster includes such a wide range of plants and is so adaptable to training, it must be one of the most versatile of the ornamental shrub genera. They will grow in any well-drained soil in sun or light shade and drought tolerant once established. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings; most of the deciduous species will also grow from winter hardwood cuttings.

Cotton lavender see Santolina

 

Crinodendron

This South American genus of three species is best grown in cool, moist, acid soil in a cool, moist climate. They do very well in coastal Otago, Southland and isolated areas further north but, hot dry winds limit them in many parts of the country. The best know species is C. hookerianum. It is a beautiful large evergreen shrub or small tree with deep green 100 mm-long narrow leaves and waxy, red, bell-shaped flowers in spring. The flowers, which hang from 100 mm stems, look like red fuchsia buds. Their matt, waxy texture is unusual and is as appealing as their colour. C. patagua is less common but easier to grow. It has rounded leaves and pendulous, white, bell-shaped flowers on short stems. Both are hardy to -10°C. Plants may be raised from seed but are usually grown from semi-ripe cuttings.

Crotalaria

This large genus (200 species) is mainly composed of plants too tender for temperate climate gardens but several species will grow well in mild, nearly frost free areas from Napier northward and will often survive, with shelter, further south. They are all similar soft-wooded, large evergreen shrubs (2.5 m × 1.5 m) with deep green rounded leaves that are usually slightly felted. The large sweet pea-like flowers are bright yellow (hence the common name canary bird flower) and slightly scented. They appear in summer and autumn and are very conspicuous. All are hardy to about -3°C but withstand harder frosts if they occur very occasionally. The best known species, C. agatiflora, has the largest flowers. Grows in most soils in sun or light shade but good drainage is important, and they are drought tolerant once established. Easily raised from seed, softwood or semi-ripe cuttings.

Crowea

This Australian genus contains some very attractive and easily grown small shrubs. Some are a little frost tender but most will tolerate -8°C and can be grown over much of the country. The two most common species, C. exalata and C. saligna, are typical of the genus. They are compact evergreen shrubs about 80 cm × 60 cm with narrow mid green leaves and masses of small, starry, pink flowers. They flower most heavily in late spring but are seldom without bloom. Several cultivated forms, such as the deep pink flowered ‘Festival’, are available. ‘Bindelong Compact’ is a very small plant (30 cm × 40 cm) that is well suited to rockeries. Easily grown in light but moist well-drained soil in full sun or very light shade. Usually propagated from small semi-ripe cuttings.

Cryptomeria                 

There is only one species of Japanese cedar (C. japonica) and it is a very large tree with bright green soft needle-like foliage that becomes rich purplish brown in winter. Several dwarf forms have been developed and they look very unlike the parent tree. There needles are short and stiff and arranged radially around the stems unlike the flatted sprays of the species. However, they do change colour in the winter. The best known of the small cultivars are ‘Globosa Nana’, which grows into a bulky shrub about 3 m × 3 m; and ‘Vilmoriniana’, which is a tiny rockery dwarf that rarely exceeds 50 cm × 50 cm. Japanese cedars are hardy to about -20°C and prefer cool, moist conditions. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Cuphea

This is a genus of some 90 species from Central and South America. Most of the species are very frost tender but several are grown in mild areas and treated as annuals where they are killed over winter. The two most common species are C. ignea and C. hyssopifolia. They are both small, rounded, evergreen shrubs that seldom exceed 75 cm × 75 cm, but they look quite different from one another. C. ignea has 20mm-long narrow bronze green leaves and is commonly known as the cigar or cigarette plant because of its unusually coloured flowers. These are orange with a black and white tip that resembles the ash at the end of a cigar. The flowers are small and tubular but carried in great numbers. C. hyssopifolia has very small deep green leaves and minute starry flowers in great numbers. It is available in white, pink or purple. ‘Rob’s Mauve’ is an attractive, heavy-flowering cultivar. Both species flower throughout the year and prefer moist, well-drained soil in sun or very light shade. They are usually grown from small tip cuttings, but are also easily raised from seed, which often self-sows.

Cytisus

Because in many areas brooms are invasive weeds, the ornamental species are often overlooked by gardeners. Yet this European genus includes some excellent garden plants, ranging from the beautiful cream-flowered ground cover, C. kewensis, to the tree-like silver-leafed C. battandieri. As is common with brooms, many of the species are virtually leafless but C. battandieri is an exception that is grown primarily for its foliage, which is large, trifoliate and silvery grey. Most Cytisus species have the bright yellow spring flowers that so typify the wild broom (C. scoparius) but there are hybrids with flowers in white, orange, pink and red shades and most are fragrant. The shrubby forms grow to about 2.5 m × 2m, but may be trimmed after flowering if necessary. Grow in light well-drained soil in full sun. All are hardy to at least -10°C. Raise the species from seed or propagate hybrids from semi-ripe cuttings. Genista and Spartium are closely related genera.

Daboecia

Many gardeners regard Daboecia as a form of Erica, but it is a distinct genus. The species seen most often is the Irish heath (D. cantabrica), which is a compact (35 cm × 50 cm) hardy (-15°C) evergreen shrub with small deep green leaves and 8 mm wide bell-shaped flowers. It blooms most heavily in spring but usually has a few flowers throughout the year; white, deep pink and pinkish purple colours are available. D. azorica is a similar species with slightly larger leaves. It grows well in most areas despite being is a little more tender than D. cantabrica. Plant in a sunny position with cool, moist, humus enriched, well-drained acid soil. Daboecia is a superb rockery plant that is easily raised from seed; it often self-sows and will naturalise well. The selected forms must be grown from small tip cuttings or layers to maintain their colour.

Dacrydium          

The New Zealand rimu (D. cupressinum) is a large tree that is well known for its red-brown timber. Less familiar, however, is the pygmy pine (D. laxifolium). This is a sub-alpine species that occurs naturally over most of the country but is rarely seen in gardens. It has very short bronze-green  to bluish-green needles, wiry stems and a trailing growth habit. The foliage develops purple tones in winter. With great age it can develop into a 3 m wide carpet. The small strobili pass large unnoticed and the red fruit is seldom seen in cultivation. It is hardy to at least -15°C and should be grown in cool, moist soil in sun or partial shade. Propagate by seed, semi-ripe cuttings or layering.

Daphne

This genus of about 50 species includes many choice garden specimens. The best known is D. odora, particularly the form ‘Leucantha’. This shrub sells in vast numbers purely on the strength of its perfume. It is an evergreen bush with 80 mm-long leathery deep green leaves. From late winter it bears clusters of small starry pale pink flowers with a strong perfume. Several flower and foliage forms are available. It is not always an easy bush to grow as it is quite particular about soil conditions and is slightly frost tender in cold winter areas. Plant in cool, moist, humus enriched, well-drained, acid soil in sun or light shade. It is impossible to add too much humus: work in plenty of compost or similar organic matter. Feed regularly with liquid fertilisers and give an occasional side dressing of acid fertiliser. Kept healthy D. odora may grow to 1.8 m × 1.2 m and will be attractive even without flowers but it is not a long-lived bush. Expect to have to replace your plant every 8–10 years. There are several species with a similar appearance, such as D. pontica, D. laureola and D. bholua.

Other Daphne species often look very different from D. odora. The most widely grown is actually not a species at all but a hybrid between D. cneorum and D. caucasica. This is D. × burkwoodii. It is a twiggy densely foliaged evergreen or semi-evergreen bush with matt mid green foliage and masses of small fragrant pink flowers in spring. The variegated foliage form is probably more widely grown than the plain species. Several other species, such as D. cneorum, D. retusa, D. collina and D. × neapolitana are similar in general appearance but vary in size and flower colour. The smallest of the readily available species is the rock daphne (D. cneorum). It grows to about 20 cm × 60 cm and is not an easy plant to succeed with, although it is definitely worth trying. The form ‘Eximea’ is a sturdier grower than the species. The exquisite dwarf D. arbuscula is a much sought after rockery species with leathery deep green leaves and bright pink flowers. It grows to about 15 cm high × 25 cm wide.

The deciduous species are a third group that is quite distinct from the others. When in leaf, the most common species, D. mezereum, could perhaps be mistaken for D. × burkwoodii. D. mezereum flowers in early spring before the foliage develops and both white and pink-flowered forms are available. Connoisseurs regard D. genkwa as the most desirable species. This deciduous bush also flowers before the foliage develops. The flowers are lavender and quite large. They are only slightly fragrant but more showy than most other species. One of this bush’s attractions is its young foliage. This, and the new growth, are covered in a fine down, which combined with the coppery colour is very attractive. It is not an easy bush to obtain as it can be difficult to propagate.

Daphne can be raised from seed but as so many of the plants are hybrids or selected forms, vegetative propagation is more common. Most will strike, often with difficulty, from semi-ripe cuttings, however, D. genkwa is usually grown from root cuttings. Over the last few years new stocks of D. odora ‘Leucantha’ have been produced by tissue culture and the improved appearance of these virus-free “high health” plants is remarkable.

Deutzia

This genus includes some of the heaviest flowering garden shrubs. Several species and many hybrids and selected forms are available. They are all deciduous with small starry white or pink flowers in densely packed heads. Double flowered forms, such as D. scabra ‘Candidissima’ are popular. They vary in size from very small bushes, such D. ‘ Nikko’ (60 cm × 60 cm), through to large shrubs, such as D. corymbosa (up to 3 m × 2 m), however, most are around 1.5 m × 1.2 m. When not in flower, deutzias largely pass unnoticed: the foliage is usually fairly plain, mid green and oval. Deutzia will grow in most soils and is best in full sun or very light shade. All are very hardy, tolerating at least -15°C. Propagate from semi-ripe cuttings in summer and autumn or hardwood cuttings over winter.

Diosma see Coleonema

 

Dodonaea

This is a fairly large genus of some 80 species, many are tropical or subtropical shrubs that are very rarely, if ever, grown. However, the ake ake or hopseed bush (D. viscosa) is extensively planted. This 4 m × 3 m evergreen shrub is found in several Pacific countries including Australia and New Zealand. It has 100 mm-long thin, almost parchment textured, leaves and develops into a densely foliaged bush. The true flowers, which are most common in summer, are tiny but the surrounding bracts are quite showy. Two forms are grown; the species, which has bright green leaves and light green flower bracts, and ‘Purpurea’, which has deep reddish purple leaves and pink to red flower bracts. This shrub is easily grown in any light well-drained soil in full sun or very light shade and is hardy to about -10°C with some damage. Propagate by seed or semi-ripe cuttings. ‘Purpurea’ is reasonably true to type from seed but good forms should be propagated vegetatively to maintain the colour.

Drimys

This Southern Hemisphere genus includes species native to Australia and New Zealand but the one most widely grown, D. winteri, is South American. It is an evergreen shrub with 150 mm long, leathery, deep green leaves and reddish stems. The foliage is attractive but the plant is grown mainly for its flowers, which are small, starry and white. These appear from mid spring. They have a jasmine-like perfume and are carried in large heads. With time this shrub may grow to 5 m × 3 m but it is usually trimmed to shape. Hardy to at least -10°C it grows bets in a cool climate with, moist, humus enriched well-drained soil and a position in sun or light shade. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings or by seed if available. The Australasian species D. aromatica is similar in general appearance but its flowers are not as fragrant, although the foliage is aromatic when crushed. It tolerates a wider climate range than D. winteri and is drought tolerant once established.

Dryandra see Proteaceae section

 

Edgeworthia

The yellow daphne (E. chrysantha [papyrifera]) is a singularly unusual deciduous shrub. In late winter, before the foliage develops, it produces sweetly scented tiny flared trumpet flowers that are yellow in the bud but open cream and fade to white. They are densely packed in rounded heads at the branch tips. The oval, matt, mid green leaves are about 100 mm long and are slightly felted on the underside. The new wood also has a slightly downy covering. The foliage cover may be sparse but the plant is mainly grown for the unusual flowers and flowering season and the fragrance. This description doesn’t really convey the unusual appearance of the plant when in flower; somehow the flowers just don’t seem to match the growth habit. It is a hardy shrub (-15°C) that prefers cool, moist, humus enriched, well-drained acid soil in sun or light shade. Propagate from fresh seed or softwood cuttings taken in late spring or early summer.

Elaeagnus

Elaeagnus pungens is a tough, adaptable evergreen that was once one of the most popular hedging shrubs but is now not so popular. It is hard to understand why; there are more interesting plants but few as undemanding. E. pungens grows to 5 m × 3 m and, as would be expected of a hedging plant, it will tolerate regular trimming. The foliage is oval and about 60 mm long × 25 mm and the stems have small thorns. Several variegated forms are grown, the most common of which is the golden-edged ‘Maculata’. The small cream flowers are insignificant. Hardy to about -15°C.

Two other species are sometimes seen, Russian olive (E. angustifolia) and E. multiflora, both of which are 2.5 m × 2m deciduous shrubs. E. angustifolia, which may eventually become a small tree, has willow-like foliage and bark that peels freely. It has small creamy green fragrant flowers followed by small olive-like fruit. It is extremely hardy and will withstand temperatures down to -35°C. E. multiflora has silvery leaves and reddish brown new growth and is hardy to -20°C. It also has greenish cream fragrant flowers but the fruits are small red edible berries that are very popular with birds.

Elaeagnus is easily grown in almost any soil and any position except deep shade. All the species may be raised from seed (stratify before sowing) or grown from cuttings. Use semi-ripe cuttings in late summer or hardwood cuttings over winter.

Enkianthus

An Asian genus of deciduous shrubs and small trees belonging to the erica family, although this relationship is not readily apparent except when in flower. The most common species is E. campanulatus, which is a large shrub or small tree that grows to about 3.5 m × 1.8 m. The foliage is oval and clustered at the end of the fine twiggy side shoots. The small light pink lily-of-the-valley-like flowers, which appear in spring, are carried in small pendulous clusters. E. campanulatus var. palibinii is a variety with larger leaves and deep pink flowers.

One of the main attractions of Enkianthus is its vibrant autumn colour. One bush can take on a huge variety of orange, red and yellow tones. The best species for autumn colour is E. perulatus. E. cernuus also has good autumn colour but is mainly grown for the flower; the form rubens has deep pinkish-red blooms as does the variety marsudae.

Enkianthus does best in a cool moist climate and demands moist, acid, humus enriched soil. It is an ideal companion for azaleas and rhododendrons in a woodland garden. The species may be raised from seed but selected forms must be propagated vegetatively. The most common method is layers as cuttings can be difficult to strike without mist.

Epacris

This genus of Australian and New Zealand natives occupies the niche filled by the ericas and callunas in other parts of the world. The New Zealand species are seldom grown, except by alpine or native plant enthusiasts, but two Australian species are common in New Zealand gardens. E. longiflora and E. impressa are small to medium sized spreading shrubs with wiry stems and small pointed deep green leaves. Their tubular flowers are reminiscent of some of the South African ericas. The deep cerise pink flowers of E. impressa are the first to appear, usually in late winter. White and red flowered plants are occasionally available. E. longiflora blooms in spring and summer and has red flowers tipped with white. Both species can grow to 1.5 m × 1.5 m if left untrimmed but they are usually clipped back to keep them tidy. Both of these species are hardy to about -5°C, but are really best in mild coastal gardens. Other species that may be seen occasionally are E. purpurascens, an Australian native with reddish purple tubular flowers, and E. pauciflora, a New Zealand native with white starry flowers.

Erica see Erica and Calluna section

 

Eriostemon

The Australian wax flower’ (E. myoporoides) is a useful and adaptable small evergreen shrub that grows to about 1.5 m × 1.5 m but may be trimmed to shape. It is seldom without a smattering of its small starry white flowers and is completely covered in mid spring. The narrow leaves are 50–75 mm long and light to mid green. The whole plant is aromatic and covered with small oil glands, which is not surprising as the genus is related to Citrus. Wax flower is hardy to about -10°C and is easily grown in any moist well-drained soil in sun and does well almost anywhere. Other species, such as the needle-leafed, mauve-flowered E. nodiflora may occasionally be seen, but E. myoporoides, especially the heavier flowering form ‘Profusion’ is the firm garden favourite. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Erythrina

The coral trees are tropical or subtropical leguminous shrubs or small trees. They are usually deciduous although a few are semi-evergreen. Coral trees are primarily grown for their flowers, which are usually bright red and extremely showy. Most species are somewhat frost tender, but E. crista-galli is reasonably tough. In cold winters it may die back to the ground but it usually reshoots from the rootstock. It has deep green, leathery, trifoliate leaves and stout branches with vicious thorns (a common feature of Erythrina species). From mid summer it produces clusters of deep, yet bright, red sweet pea-like flowers. These have a velvet texture. In mild areas where winter damage is uncommon, E. crista-galli is occasionally used for hedging, its thorns making it virtually impenetrable. If not cut back by frost or human intervention it may grow to 6 m × 5 m. It remains semi-evergreen to about -3°C and is capable of withstanding -10°C if treated as a perennial.

The seed of many other species is available but the only one that is at all common is E. caffra. This briefly deciduous species flowers in late winter or early spring before the foliage appears. In its native South Africa it becomes a large tree but is seldom larger than 5 m × 4 m in cooler climates. It is hardy to about -3°C. Erythrina grows best in light yet moist well-drained soil in full sun and needs heat to flower well. They are usually raised from seed but selected forms are grown from semi-ripe cuttings.

Escallonia

A genus of some 60 species from South America, many of which are useful hardy evergreens well suited to temperate gardens. However, only a few species and hybrids are grown, with E. × hybrida ‘Apple Blossom’ being by far the most popular. This is a densely foliaged evergreen shrub that may grow to 2.5 m × 2 m. The rounded leaves are deep green and serrated; the small pink and white flowers are campanulate and clustered at the tips of the branches. ‘Apple Blossom’ flowers throughout the year in mild areas, but is primarily spring and summer blooming. It is hardy to -15°C, may be trimmed severely and is often used for hedging. Propagate from semi-ripe cuttings.

Other forms of E × hybrida (a collective of E, macrantha, E. virgata and E. rubra crosses), such as ‘Field’s Scarlet’ may occasionally be seen. E × exoniensis is also reasonably common; it has white flowers with a faint pink tint and is one of the best for hedging as it grows up to 3.5 m high.

Euonymus

This Northern Hemisphere genus of about 170 species includes a large range of evergreen and deciduous trees, shrubs and sub-shrubs. The common deciduous species is the spindle tree (E. europaeus), the most distinguishing feature of which is its unusual three lobed pink fruit that develops from late summer. These are attractive but otherwise this multi-trunked large shrub or small tree (about 3.5 m × 2.5 m) is untidy and ungainly. It is also somewhat invasive and may come to be regarded as a weed.

The evergreen species are most often represented by E. japonica, which is a large (3.5 m × 2.5 m) evergreen shrub that is primarily grown for its foliage, of which there are several variegated forms. The smaller species, such as the attractively variegated E. fortunei ‘Emerald and Gold’ (1.2 m × 1.2 m), are good plants for adding bright foliage colour. Euonymus have generally insignificant white flowers in spring or early summer. The flowers are usually followed by berries, which with the exception of the spindle tree, are seldom showy enough to be a feature. Grow Euonymus for it tough evergreen foliage and it ease of cultivation. They can also be used for hedging and make a good substitute for privet.

Euonymus grows in most soils in positions from full sun to quite deep shade. Ample summer moisture will produce better foliage but the genus is generally drought tolerant once established. Most species are hardy to at least -15°C and E. europaeus will withstand -25°C. Most garden Euonymus are hybrids and should be propagated by semi-ripe cuttings.

Euphorbia

This is one of the largest plant genera with in excess of 1500 species covering everything from annuals to small trees. They vary enormously, but share similar-shaped flowers and a characteristic white latex-like sap. Many of the shrubby species are frost tender but there are a few that are very hardy. Two that are very familiar are crown of thorns (E. millii [splendens]) and poinsettia (E. pulcherrima); both are tender and often grown as house plants. However, in frost-free areas with warm summers they may be grown outdoors. The most common hardy species is E. characias (veneta [wulfenii]), which bush grows to about 1.5 m × 1.2 m. Its woody yet flexible branches are densely covered in slightly drooping 100 mm-long, narrow, bluish green leaves and each branch ends in a terminal head of yellowish green flower bracts. The true flowers are minute but the bracts are quite showy and are usually present year round. Several similar but smaller species are sometimes seen in rockeries but these are usually regarded as perennials. Euphorbias are easily grown in most soils in sun or light shade and may be raised from seed or semi-ripe cuttings.

Euryops

Three species of this African shrub daisy genus are common in gardens, particularly coastal gardens where they often flower year round and tolerate strong winds and salt spray. The species most widely grown is E. pectinatus (some authorities suggest is really E. abrotanifolius, however as it is seldom, if ever, sold under that name it is probably preferable to stick with the name E. pectinatus), which is similar in size, flower and growth habit to tho the other common species, E. tenuissimus. Both are densely foliaged compact bushes that grow to about 1.5 m × 1.2 m. They have bright yellow daisy flowers on 100–200 mm stems that hold the flowers above the foliage. They flower throughout the year with the greatest abundance of bloom in late winter and spring. Both have pinnate leaves, those of E. pectinatus are silvery grey and coarsely toothed with a slightly downy surface texture; E. tenuissimus has very bright green fern-like foliage. The third common species, E. acraeus, is quite different. It is a small mounding bush about 50 cm × 1 m with 40 mm-long narrow, slightly toothed, bright silvery grey leaves. The plant is covered in bright yellow daisies in late spring or early summer. All of these species are hardy to about -6°C and will withstand greater cold if they are kept dry over winter. Propagate from semi-ripe cuttings. Gamolepsis chrysanthemoides is a closely related plant that is often mistaken for E. tenuissimus.

Fatsia

This genus contains only one species, F. japonica, which is one of the most widely grown house plants and also makes an excellent garden specimen. The large palmate leaves may be up to 400 mm across and add a lush tropical foliage effect despite being hardy to at least -10°C. Grown primarily for its foliage, this is an adaptable plant capable of growing in full sun if kept moist. However, it is most at home in deep, rich, moisture-retentive soil in light shade. Many specimens start life as house plants but are moved to the garden when they become too large to remain indoors. A mature plant may be 5 m × 3.5 m. A variegated foliage form is available but rare and inclined to revert to green. The creamy autumn flower heads are not insignificant but as they tend to attract flies they are best removed if the plant is near any frequently opened windows or doors. Although easily raised from cuttings these are large and unwieldy so propagation from seed is preferred.

Fatshedera lizei is a bi-generic hybrid between F. japonica and ivy (Hedera helix). It is sprawling semi-climbing plant with leaves like a miniature F. japonica. Variegated forms are common but unstable. It is usually grown as a house plant but will withstand -8°C. Propagate from semi-ripe cuttings.

Firethorn see Pyracantha

Flame pea see Chorizema

Flannel flower see Phylica

Flowering quince see Chaenomeles

 

Forsythia

One of the most widely grown spring-flowering shrubs. Several species and many hybrids are grown. All have the typical toothed pointed oval leaves and yellow flowers but vary in ultimate size, flower size and colour and earliness of flowering. The most common species are the upright F. intermedia (2.5 m × 2 m) and the weeping F. suspensa (2.5 m × 2.5 m). The very strongly upright F. viridissima, which grows to 3.5 m high, is still grown but is more commonly used in hybridising rather than as a garden plant in its own right. F. intermedia is now widely regarded as a hybrid between F. suspensa and F. viridissima so it is sometimes listed as F. × intermedia. Among the most distinctive hybrids are the very small ‘Bronxensis’ (60 cm × 60 cm); ‘Arnold Dwarf’, which grows to 1 m × 1.5 m; ‘Karl Sax’, which has large deep golden-yellow flowers and is late blooming; ‘Lynwood’, which is an upright grower with weather-tolerant flowers; and ‘Beatrix Farrand’, which is a large flowered hybrid that grows to 2.5 m high. Purple forms, such as ‘Atrocaulis’ are also occasionally available. Forsythia will tolerate -20°C and grows in almost any well-drained soil in sun or light shade. Propagate from open ground winter hardwood cuttings or semi-ripe summer cuttings.

Frangipani see Plumeria

Fuchsia see Fuchsia section

 

Gardenia

These evergreen shrubs are hardier than is generally believed but unless the climatic conditions are just right they often fail to bloom satisfactorily. G. jasminoides is an open shrub growing to 1.8 m × 1.8 m with bright green, leathery, camellia-like leaves and heavily fragrant, white, rosebud double flowers. ‘Radicans’ is a compact form that grows to 50 cm × 1 m, and ‘Professor Pucci’ is a large-flowered form that grows to 1 m × 1 m. G. jasminoides is primarily summer flowering and requires even night temperatures, regular water and rich soil high in humus for good blooming. It is hardy to about -5°C for brief periods. Grow in sun or light shade. The other species is G. thunbergia, this is a large (2 m × 2.5 m) South African species with 150 mm long, very deep green leaves and fragrant white single flowers from late winter or early spring. It is less demanding in its blooming requirements than G. jasminoides but also less frost tolerant.

Garrya

The tassel tree (G. elliptica) is a hardy (-15°C) evergreen shrub or small tree with deep green, 60 mm long, oval leaves and minute creamy yellow flowers in long tassels, which begin to develop in autumn and mature during winter. The male plants have the longest tassels; the form ‘James Roof’ is usually regarded as the best. If male and female plants are grown, the female may produce purplish berries from late winter. A mature specimen can be up to 5 m × 4 m but the plant remains shrubby for many years. It is easily grown in any moist well-drained soil in sun or very light shade. May be raised from seed but vegetative propagation by semi-ripe cuttings or grafting is the only way to be sure of the sex.

Gaultheria.

A large genus of evergreen shrubs and ground covers. The native mountain snowberry (G. depressa) is an excellent rockery plant that grows to about 10 cm high × 30 cm wide. It has tiny rounded leaves and small white flowers in spring that are followed by white berries in late summer and autumn. Snowberry is easily grown in moist, humus enriched, well-drained soil in sun or light shade. It is usually propagated by semi-ripe cuttings. Pernettya is a genus that include some very similar species.

Geraldton wax bush see Chamaelaucium

Germander see Teucrium

Golden tainui see Pomaderris

Grevillea see Proteaceae section

 

Grewia

This principally African genus of around 150 species includes one that is an attractive and easily grown plant for gardens in mild areas. G. occidentalis. is a compact evergreen bush that grows to about 1.5 m × 1 m. The 50–75mm long, rounded, mid green leaves have serrated edges and the flowers resemble miniature passionfruit blooms. They are lavender pink and may be seen throughout the year with the main flowering season from spring to autumn. It is hardy to about -5°C with some damage and where the climate is suitable, it may be used for hedging. Grewia prefers a moist, humus enriched, well-drained soil in full sun or very light shade. Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings.

Griselinia

This genus, which is closely related to Aucuba, includes New Zealand and South American species but only the two New Zealand species are cultivated in local gardens. G. littoralis, is an evergreen shrub that may reach tree-like proportions in its natural habitat but normally grows to about 2.5 m × 1.5 m in cultivation. It is grow mainly for the foliage, which is oval, bright green or boldly variegated (cream and yellow variegated forms exist), and very leathery. The leaves are often damaged by leaf roller caterpillars. The flowers and fruit are ornamentally unimportant. G. lucida is a less common but more attractive species. The foliage is similar to G. littoralis but larger and seemingly less prone to insect damage. Both species thrive in rich moist soils but are adaptable and drought tolerant once established. In the wild they often begin life as epiphytes. They are natural coastal plants that are very salt tolerant. G. littoralis is hardy to about -10°C and G. lucida to -5°C. Both species grow well from seed; however the selected forms must be propagated by semi-ripe cuttings to retain their characteristics.

Hakea see Proteaceae section

 

Hamamelis

The witch hazels are hardy deciduous shrubs and small trees valued for the fragrant winter flowers, which have narrow, strap like petals and are best described as spidery. The most popular species, H. mollis, has spicily scented bright yellow flowers from mid winter. It may grow to 5 m × 3 m but is usually much smaller. H. japonica and H. virginiana are similar species. H. virginiana is spring flowering and its flowers tend be lost among the ovate hazel-like foliage so it is not widely grown. However, it is useful as a grafting stock. H × intermedia, which is believed to be a H. mollis × H. japonica cross, includes several excellent forms, such as the brownish-orange-flowered ‘Jelena’ and the large-flowered ‘Arnold Promise’. All of the species and hybrids are hardy to at least -20°C although the flowers may be damaged by very severe frosts. Grow in moist, humus-enriched, well-drained soil in sun or light shade. The species may be raised from seed (stratify before sowing) but the hybrids should be grown from semi-ripe summer cuttings and some may have to be grafted on H. virginiana stock. Winter hazel (Corylopsis) is a closely related genus.

Heavenly bamboo see Nandina

 

Hebe

Worldwide, this is probably the most widely grown New Zealand genus and apart from a few species the genus is entirely endemic. As with so many natives it is often more appreciated overseas than at home but many species and hybrids can be found in local gardens. The showiest flowers belong to H. speciosa and its selected forms, while the hardiest plants are the conifer-like whipcord species, such as H. armstrongii, from the alpine regions. Hebe species range from minute ground covers to small trees, from the regularly spectacular to the almost non flowering, from broadleaf to near needle-leaf. They are adapted to a wide range of climates so vary considerably in their hardiness and soil requirements. Most prefer moist well-drained soil in sun or very light shade. Often badly damaged by leaf roller caterpillars. Usually propagated from semi-ripe cuttings, which strike easily except for some of the alpine species.

The following are just a few from the huge range.

Hebe albicans

A small spreading bush with 25 mm long greyish green leaves and 25 mm white flower  spikes in summer. 60 cm × 1 m. ‘Boulder Lake’ is a prostrate form.

Hebe × andersonii ‘Andersonii Variegata’

Probably the most boldly variegated hebe. The leaves are elliptical, up to 100 mm long, and brightly edged and suffused with creamy white. The 100 mm long flowers spikes are lavender blue. Summer flowering. 1.5 m × 1.5 m.

Hebe armstrongii

A South Island whipcord species that is now rare in the wild. Bright golden-yellow stems with very small tightly adpressed leaves. Small white flower heads in early summer. 50 cm × 80 cm.

Hebe diosmifolia

Bright green 30 mm long elliptical leaves that overlap along the stem. Somewhat flattened 60 mm spikes of pale mauve flowers in summer. Develops into a flat-topped spreading bush about 60 cm × 1.2 m. Many of the new ‘Wiri’ hybrids show the influence of H. diosmifolia.

Hebe × franciscana ‘Blue Gem’

Leathery 50 mm long, bright green elliptical leaves of 70 mm spikes of intense purplish blue flowers in summer. 1.5 m × 1.5 m. Very showy and tough. ‘Waireka’ is a variegated cultivar.

Hebe ‘Inspiration’

A H. diosmifolia × H. speciosa hybrid. 30–40 mm long deep green leathery leaves and heads of bright purplish pink flowers through the warmer months. 80 cm × 1.2 m.

Hebe ‘McEwanii’

Small (15 mm) greyish green leaves and upright reddish stems. Small heads of mauve flowers in summer. 50 cm × 30 cm. A neat and distinctive little bush that does well in rockeries.

Hebe odora

Bright green 20 mm long elliptical leaves that are quite widely spaced along the stems. Heads of white flowers in late spring and early summer. 80 cm × 1.2 m. A neat bush that responds well to trimming. Sometimes sold as H. buxifolia.

Hebe speciosa

Elliptical deep green leaves up to 100 mm long and bright pink 125 mm flower spikes from late spring to autumn. 1.2 m × 1.5 m. There are many cultivated forms in a wide range of flower and foliage colours.

Hebe topiaria

Small rounded bright greyish-green leaves that overlap along the stems to give a dense foliage cover. Small heads of white flowers in summer. 80 cm × 80 cm.

Heimerlodendron see Pisonia

 

Hibiscus

The spectacular flowers of the subtropical species are well-known, but not all Hibiscus are tropical or frost tender. There are two types of shrubby Hibiscus: the sub-tropical hybrids, derived from H. rosa-sinensis, and the hardy deciduous shrubs. These two groups are very different from each other and many gardeners find it hard to believe they are related until they see the flowers.

The sub-tropicals that are so common seen in gardens from Gisborne north, are nearly all selected forms and hybrids of H. rosa-sinensis, a species from southern China . They have wavy, deep green, heavy lobed leaves that are quite leathery; variegated cultivars are available, but tend to be weak growers. The flowers, which open wide and have a prominent pistil, are large and mallow-like. They are available in vividly bold yellow, orange and red shades as well as delicate pastel pinks and white. In favoured areas Hibiscus flower throughout the year and where the climate is mild they are easily grown, but frosts below -2°C are damaging and often fatal. Plant in moist, well-drained, humus enriched soil in sun or very light shade and feed regularly. Propagate from semi-ripe summer or early autumn cuttings.

The hardy deciduous species are just as spectacular but many gardeners find their bare winter branches untidy and unattractive, consequently they tend to be underrated. The most common species are the wine-red or purple-flowered rose of Sharon (H. syriacus) and the double white form of H. mutabilis. Many hybrids are available in Europe and North America, some with flowers up to 200 mm in diameter, but they are seldom seen here. Deciduous Hibiscus may either be left to grow as large shrubs or may be cut back almost to ground level in spring, which encourages strongly upright growth. They are hardy to around -15°C and are able to reshoot from the rootstock even if frosted to ground level. Plant in fairly light well-drained soil in full sun. The species may be raised from seed but hybrids should be propagated from semi-ripe cuttings or by dividing large established clumps in late winter or early spring.

Hydrangea

The well known ‘Hortensia’ hybrids are derived from H. macrophylla, a Japanese species. They have large serrated edged leaves up to 150 mm across and large mop-headed flower clusters that can be as much as 300 mm in diameter. Regular feeding can produce huge flower heads. The lace cap hydrangeas, which are derived from H. serrata have small sterile flowers in the centre of the head and larger flowers around the edge. The flowers of both of these forms change colour with the soil pH, pink in alkaline soils, blue in acid. To acidify soil add sulphur or any sulphur based compound, such as iron sulphate, to make your soil more alkaline add hydrated lime. These common hydrangeas develop into large bushes (1.8 m × 1.8 m) and they mainly flower in summer.

Hydrangea colour by soil
Cultivar Acid Soil Alkaline Soil
‘Altona’ Deep blue Light red
‘Blue Prince’ Deep bright blue Deep pink
‘Holstein’ Bright blue Mid pink
‘Red Star’ Deep blue Bright red
‘Tosca’ Light blue Salmon pink
 

There are many other hydrangeas, such as the tree-like H. paniculata, most of which are large deciduous shrubs that grow to around 1.8 m high, but there are also low spreading or semi-climbing species. H. paniculata has off white flowers that age to pink in lilac-like flower heads. H. quercifolia has rather plain white flowers but attractive foliage that develops brilliant red tones in autumn. H. arborescens is only a medium sized shrub but is often shaped like a miniature tree, it has white, tinted pink, flower heads. H. aspera has very large leaves and flat pink or white flower heads. The cream-flowered climbing plant formerly known as the climbing hydrangea (H. petiolaris) was renamed H. anomala and is now under consideration for removal from the genus, possibly to Schizophragma, which includes the closely related S. hydrangeoides. All grow well in moist, humus enriched, well-drained soil in dappled shade. They are hardy to about -15°C. Propagate from open ground winter cuttings or semi-ripe summer cuttings.

Hypericum

This genus includes many evergreen and semi-deciduous shrubs and perennials. Some spread vigorously and are little more than weeds but others are very useful and attractive plants. All have bright yellow buttercup-like flowers in spring and summer and some have red fruiting bodies that also add colour. Most of the shrubby species have rounded glaucous or deep green leaves that resemble the deciduous honeysuckles. The rockery species often have small greyish green leaves and tend to be low spreaders. H. × moserianum ‘Tricolor’ grows to 1 m × 1.2 m and has brightly variegated foliage in white, cream and pink shades. The most common species are the creeping H. calycinum, which may spread several metres wide and is often used in amenity plantings such as road islands, and the shrubby (up to 1.8 m × 1.8 m) H. leschenaultii. They are easily grown in any soil that does not dry out entirely in sun to quite deep shade. Most species are hardy to at least -15°C and are usually propagated from semi-ripe cuttings.

Indian hawthorn see Raphiolepsis

 

Indigofera

This leguminous genus of around 300 species. There are many hardy species, such as I. decora and I. cytisoides, but those grown locally tend to be slightly frost tender, although they will often shoot from the rootstock even if cut to the ground by frost. The common species are I. heterantha (gerardiana) and I. lindleyana . Both have attractive pinnate leaves that are up to 200 mm long and pink sweet-pea-like flowers in 100–150 mm long racemes during summer. The ultimate size depends on winter frosts. In mild areas they become medium sized-shrubs, up to 1.5 m × 1.2 m, but if cut to the ground they will rarely grow larger than 60 cm × 80 cm in one season. They will withstand occasional -4°C frosts without any great damage but repeated freezing to this level will cause the tops to die back. Easily grown in any light, yet moist, soil in full sun. May be raised from seed, suckers or semi-ripe cuttings.

Iochroma

This South American potato family (Solanacae) genus includes about 20 species, three of which are quite common in mild, nearly frost-free, areas. All three are soft-stemmed shrubs that grow to about 2.5 m × 2 m. They have large rounded leaves that taper to a point and pendulous clusters of long tubular flowers with widely flared trumpets. I. cyaneum has deep purple flowers, it is probably the most common species. I. fuchsoides has orange and yellow flowers while those of I. grandiflorum are mauve to purple. They will flower throughout the year if the climate allows. Although best in frost-free